GotApex? Forums - View Single Post - Regular Preventative Maintenance for Your Car

mechmike0034 · 06-29-2009, 08:24 AM

Follow the owner's manual recommendations for services and intervals - NOT the "dealer recommended" schedule (that is designed more to to make dealers more money than to protect your vehicle...)

My wife is driving a 2003 Buick Rendezvous - the only new vehicle I have ever purchased. It currently has ~160K miles on it. It has had two sets of tires, two sets of brake pads, two air filters, one thermostat/coolant change, and one serpentine belt. Period. I change the oil using 5W30 Mobil1 and an ACDelco filter when the GM oil life monitor says it is time to do so. It uses no oil between changes, drives as well as it did when it was new, and gets 25 MPG consistently on the highway.

Beware of flush chemicals and additives for automotive fluids. 95% of these are snake oil, plain and simple. They either don't help, or can cause damage (engine, transmission, and engine coolant "flush chemicals" are the worst culprits, and A/C "stop-leak" will destroy an automotive air conditioning system...) to expensive components.

If you don't add any type of "additive" that didn't come in your vehicle from the factory you never have to worry about chemical compatibility issues.

Fluid exchange is cool - there are machines out there that do this for engine coolant, power steering fluid, and automatic transmission fluid - but don't introduce any additional chemicals, additives, or conditioners that are not specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

I don't have a problem with changing brake fluid when changing brake pads, even when it is not on the maintenance schedule. Even if you don't change all the brake fluid, any tech worth his salt will pinch off the flex hose with a special tool and open the caliper bleeder screw before pushing the caliper piston back in while changing brake pads. The fluid in the calipers is at the lowest point in the system, which is where any moisture in the system collects. It also is subject to the most heat, which breaks down the fluid and the rubber caliper piston seal. Expelling that fluid rather than pushing it back through the anti-lock solenoids to the master cylinder goes a long way towards maintaining good pedal feel and the prevention of internal hydraulic system corrosion.

The biggest problem with fluid service at home is proper disposal of the old fluid.

06-29-2009, 08:24 AM	#2
mechmike0034 aka the keg killer Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Ala-effin'-bama! Posts: 2,738	Follow the owner's manual recommendations for services and intervals - NOT the "dealer recommended" schedule (that is designed more to to make dealers more money than to protect your vehicle...) My wife is driving a 2003 Buick Rendezvous - the only new vehicle I have ever purchased. It currently has ~160K miles on it. It has had two sets of tires, two sets of brake pads, two air filters, one thermostat/coolant change, and one serpentine belt. Period. I change the oil using 5W30 Mobil1 and an ACDelco filter when the GM oil life monitor says it is time to do so. It uses no oil between changes, drives as well as it did when it was new, and gets 25 MPG consistently on the highway. Beware of flush chemicals and additives for automotive fluids. 95% of these are snake oil, plain and simple. They either don't help, or can cause damage (engine, transmission, and engine coolant "flush chemicals" are the worst culprits, and A/C "stop-leak" will destroy an automotive air conditioning system...) to expensive components. If you don't add any type of "additive" that didn't come in your vehicle from the factory you never have to worry about chemical compatibility issues. Fluid exchange is cool - there are machines out there that do this for engine coolant, power steering fluid, and automatic transmission fluid - but don't introduce any additional chemicals, additives, or conditioners that are not specified by the vehicle manufacturer. I don't have a problem with changing brake fluid when changing brake pads, even when it is not on the maintenance schedule. Even if you don't change all the brake fluid, any tech worth his salt will pinch off the flex hose with a special tool and open the caliper bleeder screw before pushing the caliper piston back in while changing brake pads. The fluid in the calipers is at the lowest point in the system, which is where any moisture in the system collects. It also is subject to the most heat, which breaks down the fluid and the rubber caliper piston seal. Expelling that fluid rather than pushing it back through the anti-lock solenoids to the master cylinder goes a long way towards maintaining good pedal feel and the prevention of internal hydraulic system corrosion. The biggest problem with fluid service at home is proper disposal of the old fluid. __________________ "The price of progress is trouble." (C. F. "Boss" Kettering) "50% of the American public has below-average intelligence. 70% of the American public now has regular access to the Internet. Do the math." (unknown)