Best place to get oil(0w-20) change in San Diego?

[surfer]

Any tips on a good place for getting an oil change in San Diego? I have a 2006 Civic Hybrid. For my first change I took it to Goodyear cause I bought one of those 5 "free" oil change for $50 cards they were selling door to door. When I showed up for my "free" oil change they hit me with a $12.99/quart charge cause I needed 0w-20 oil which is not covered by the "free" promotion.

[InfiniteNothing]

If you bring in your own oil would they still charge you for it

[surfer]

They have a policy against using user purchased parts.

[mechmike0034]

Call Petersen Automotive in Escondido, unless that happens to be too far out of your way. I know time and distance don't correspond in SoCal like they do in other areas...

http://www.ourautoshop.com/

[renovation]

I hope you demanded a full refund!

[cheapie]

if you've got a wal-mart they do them super cheap. we usually get full synthetic for about $35. much better than the major oil change chains!

[surfer]

There is a Wal-mart about 4 miles away. I'll give them a try on my next oil change. I'll keep the Escondido shop in mind but that's a bit far.

To everybody in the University City area stay away from Goodyear Tire in the UTC mall. I went there Sunday and they hole punched my prepaid card so it couldn't be used then they told me to make an "appointment" for another day cause they couldn't get the 0w-20 oil cause there parts place wasn't open. The next day I showed up for my "appointment" on time at 4pm and the assistant manager said an oil guy called in sick and they couldn't fit me in. After talking with him more he said it's first come first serve and it appeared the 0w-20 oil that was suppose to be ordered was nowhere to be found.

There are 4 more "free" oil changes left on the card but I'm going to give it away to someone whose car takes the "free" 10w-30 oil.

[DarkFury]

Personally, I buy my Amsoil Synthetic and my filter (both good for 1 year 35,000 miles whichever comes first) and take my ride to Walmart to have them put it in.

Pretty much they charge me like $15 to do this... and since it's only once a year, it really isn't that much of a bother to wait for them to get to it.

Most of the other local oil change shops only wanna give you like $2 off the standard oil change (which costs me like $32.99 here) to put in "self supplied" oil... which is a big rip-off!

Hell, if their oil is only worth $2, then why don't they sell it for that price and let folks change their own dayuuum oil. :heh:

Pretty much even if their "lube techs" were charging $40 per hour for labor and these places guarantee an oil change in 10 mins or less (which is about $6.67 per 10 minute increment) then giving the guy a half hour worth of labor + lift/pit time seems fair enough to me.

[brainsmile]

once a year???

[DarkFury]

once a year???
Yes... once a year.

Don't believe the myth of the 3,000 / 3 month oil change. :D


www.amsoil.com :thumb:

https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/tso_bottle_350pxh.jpg



SERVICE LIFE
AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline fueled vehicles as follows:

• Normal Service(3) – Up to 35,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.

• Severe Service(4) – Up to 17,500 miles or one year, whichever comes first.

• Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).

• In all non-gasoline fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval.

[surfer]

Where do you buy this oil? How much does it cost?





Yes... once a year.

Don't believe the myth of the 3,000 / 3 month oil change. :D


www.amsoil.com :thumb:

https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/tso_bottle_350pxh.jpg

[brainsmile]

does the age of the car matter?

[Brian]

I don't know if they have this anymore, but I used to use these coupons from the Student Dollar Stretcher that I got from UCSD (I don't know if SDSU have those). Inside, there's a coupon for a $9.99 oil change at Big O Tires. They always try to get you to buy new tires, doors, windows, mirrors, whatever else they can throw at you. Just say no. They do a pretty decent job too.

[DarkFury]

Where do you buy this oil? How much does it cost?
You can buy AMSOIL directly from their website, or there is an extensive "dealer network" that sells the oil online. Personally, I used to be an online dealer, but I dropped my status down to "preferred customer" because I really wasn't trying to sell oil myself (however one day that might change depending on how much interest it begins to generate.)

The Series 2000 oil is about $9 per quart + shipping, however considering that it can go 1 year 35,000 miles, you save over the long run by not having to buy 3 additional oil changes and the time spent changing your oil 3 additional times.

Pretty much I've run it in my Ram 1500 HEMI for the past 2 years and she runs like a top (only have had 3 oil changes on her to date. :D )

My 300C uses 5W20 which is not yet a Series 2000 rating, so I have to use AMSOIL's 7,500 mile/6 month oil in that vehicle.


does the age of the car matter?
Not really... as long as the vehicle is in good running condition and doesn't have obvious oil leaks then it would be safe running AMSOIL.

Personally 2 years ago I converted my 1996 T-Bird from conventional Valvoline to the 1 year 25,000 mile regular synthetic AMSOIL (10W30) and ran it for 2 years on that oil (I just recently drove that vehicle down to Florida to give it to my nephew... and it still hasn't had an oil change.)

https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/atm_qt_300pxh.jpg

Pretty much I now swear by AMSOIL... I've had nothing but good things to say about it since I started using it and I won't be going back to conventional any time soon.

[brainsmile]

so now educate me on the different oil combinations 10w30 etc

[mechmike0034]

so now educate me on the different oil combinations 10w30 etc

Start here: http://bobistheoilguy.com/

[DarkFury]

so now educate me on the different oil combinations 10w30 etc
I don't quite understand your question...

10w30 is a oil formulation that just states that in the winter time the oil will flow like a 10W oil but still give the protection as a 30W oil

(Of course this is a "much simplified" definition).


Or are you asking about what different viscosities of the Series 2000 oil from AMSOIL?

[surfer]

They don't make AMSOIL in 0w-20. Would I notice a difference using Extended Life 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil?

[brainsmile]

I don't quite understand your question...

10w30 is a oil formulation that just states that in the winter time the oil will flow like a 10W oil but still give the protection as a 30W oil

(Of course this is a "much simplified" definition).


Or are you asking about what different viscosities of the Series 2000 oil from AMSOIL?

My question was basically... what oil viscosity do you use in what situation?

Does age of car matter?

Weather?

etc

[DarkFury]

They don't make AMSOIL in 0w-20. Would I notice a difference using Extended Life 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil?
Which engine size is your Honda Civic Hybrid?

Looking at the Online Application Guide located here: http://www.amsoil.com/scripts/runisa.dll?amsoiloaf:index

Selecting the 1.3L 4-cyl Engine code LDA2 Variable Fuel (assuming this is yours, it says the following:



LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS
Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*[1]
Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil
SAE 5W-20 XL Synthetic Motor Oil
All Temps......0W-20


Pretty much unless your car states that you can't use a 0W30 oil (the same stuff I use in my truck) then the only other oil the offer is the 5W20 oil (XL-7500) that is the same as what I use in my 300C (good for only 7500 miles or 6 months)

Maybe one day they will make a 0W20 oil... but I guess that right now, not enough vehicles use that combination to warrent them to produce that formulation in the Series 2000 version.

I feel the same way about them not making the Series 2000 in 5W20... but I've heard that it is being talked about and may be produced in the future. If they do, then I'm gonna switch my 300C from the XL-7500 version to the Series 2000 version.

[DarkFury]

My question was basically... what oil viscosity do you use in what situation?

Does age of car matter?

Weather?

etc
Pretty much you use whatever oil viscosity is recommended by your vehicle manufactuer.

Most OEMs give you an "operating range" for you to buy oil... if you live in a colder climate than I'd say that it would be better to get the lowest front number you can find for the appropriate oil viscosity (i.e. my Ram 1500 recommends 10W30 or 5W30... however I'm perfectly safe using 0W30 since the oil flows even better in the Winter than the normal 5 or 10 weights without burning off.

Bascially, the colder the environment you live in, the lower the front number you want to use as that means that the oil will flow easier through your engine on startup (when all the oil is settled down in your oil pan) The 5W oil flows a bit easier than the 10W, just as a 0W flows better than a 5W.

As far as the age of the car... as I stated before, you should be alright, however if you've been on regular "conventional" oil for a long time (i.e. over 2 years) then I'd recommend using an engine oil flush to remove any deposits that might be in your engine due to all the parafins (wax) that conventional oils contain in order to maintain their viscosity.

Here is a link to the AMSOIL brand engine flush: https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aef.aspx

https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/aef_bottle_300pxh.jpg



Engine Flush (AEF)
AMSOIL Fast Acting Engine Flush is made from a carefully selected blend of solvents and special cleaning agents that dissolve and disperse harmful deposits formed in the crankcase, cylinder walls, pistons and rings of an internal combustion engine. When used as directed, it cleans and restores operating efficiency to valves, valve lifters, rocker arms, and pistons for improved horsepower, fuel economy, and performance. Use before changing oil.

[surfer]

You picked the correct engine on my 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid. The owners manual says to use 0W-20 or 5W-20 if OW-20 is unavailable. Doesn't specifically say not to use 0W-30...



Which engine size is your Honda Civic Hybrid?

Looking at the Online Application Guide located here: http://www.amsoil.com/scripts/runisa.dll?amsoiloaf:index

Selecting the 1.3L 4-cyl Engine code LDA2 Variable Fuel (assuming this is yours, it says the following:



Pretty much unless your car states that you can't use a 0W30 oil (the same stuff I use in my truck) then the only other oil the offer is the 5W20 oil (XL-7500) that is the same as what I use in my 300C (good for only 7500 miles or 6 months)

Maybe one day they will make a 0W20 oil... but I guess that right now, not enough vehicles use that combination to warrent them to produce that formulation in the Series 2000 version.

I feel the same way about them not making the Series 2000 in 5W20... but I've heard that it is being talked about and may be produced in the future. If they do, then I'm gonna switch my 300C from the XL-7500 version to the Series 2000 version.

[DarkFury]

You picked the correct engine on my 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid. The owners manual says to use 0W-20 or 5W-20 if OW-20 is unavailable. Doesn't specifically say not to use 0W-30...
Dont' put the 0W30 in your car!!! (doing that might void the warranty!!!)

Basically your car runs off of 20W oil... so you can play with the front number going down. Don't change the back number as that is really the official weight of the oil being used in the application.

I know that because my 300C has the MDS (Multi Displacement System) that I am required to use a 20W oil. If I put a 30W oil in there, then that would void the warranty if it were to cause a malfunction. Therefore I just stick to the 5W20 oil.

But look at the bright side... 2 oil changes per year is still better than 4 (plus the XL-7500 oil is cheaper per quart than the Series 2000). :D

[brainsmile]

Do you generally flush the engine yourself or take it somewhere?

[DarkFury]

Do you generally flush the engine yourself or take it somewhere?
Flushing the engine oil is really no different than any other oil change... just depends on whether or not you wanna get messy yourself or let someone else get messy.


Pretty much you put the Engine flush in the oil... run the car for 15 to 20 mins (don't drive it... just start it and let it run) then drain the hot oil out of the car into your drip pan.

Add fresh oil (and a new filter) after you replace the drain plug and you are done. :thumb:

[brainsmile]

do you add the flush or do you drain some of the oil first and then add the flush?

[surfer]

Some questions about taking the car to Wal-mart. How long does it usually take for an oil change? Do they typically have "rare" oil filters in stock like for a 2006 Civic Hybrid?

[DarkFury]

do you add the flush or do you drain some of the oil first and then add the flush?
Just add the flush to the oil you currently have...

That bottle isn't that much... it's only 16 ounces.

[DarkFury]

Some questions about taking the car to Wal-mart. How long does it usually take for an oil change? Do they typically have "rare" oil filters in stock like for a 2006 Civic Hybrid?
Whenever I take my car to Wally world, I plan on being there at least 45 mins to 2 hours (any more than 2 hours and I just come back later)

Pretty much the only reason I tolerate the "slowness" is that I can at least shop while my car waits, they have a "food court" if I get hungry (my Wally world has a Mikey D's in it) and I can generally keep myself busy.. unlike waiting at the dealership.

Also, as far as getting rid of waste oil (if you change your oil yourself)... only Wal-mart and Auto Zone will readily accept used oil... most of the "quick lubes" won't even talk to you if you come in with old oil in a drip pan.

As far as the oil filter goes.... my only advice is "DON'T BUY A CHEAP FRAM FILTER!!!"... I'd say go to NAPA and get you a good Wix filter for your car, or, if you decide to use the AMSOIL, get the synthetic nanofiber Ea filter that is good for one year. Filtering the oil is high on the "important list" as far as protecting the engine in regards to oil.

[mechmike0034]

I'd recommend using an engine oil flush to remove any deposits that might be in your engine due to all the parafins (wax) that conventional oils contain in order to maintain their viscosity.

I've got to disagree on this one. Many manufacturers caution against engine flushes, as per this example:

http://acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/tsb/tsb_03D-159.pdf

I don't know if Honda specifically does, but it'd be worth verifying in the owner's manual before doing it.

http://www.artsautomotive.com/GenuineFluids.htm


This is Honda 0W-20 motor oil for use in the Insight and Civic Hybrid. 0W-20 is very thin. Both the Civic and Insight have very tight main bearing clearances (.00095" , just under one thousandth of an inch, about half of what most engines run). Not only will using the wrong oil reduce fuel economy, but may actually ruin the engine. Thicker oil may not be able to squeeze in between the bearing and the journal when cold and cause some serious damage. Honda is currently the only manufacturer using 0W-20 oil.

Your Civic Hybrid has a Maintenance Minder system - follow it!

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX?14@@.ef8655c/32

Bottom line - follow what your owner's manual says to do as far as oil type, viscosity, service grade and change interval...

[DarkFury]

I've got to disagree on this one. Many manufacturers caution against engine flushes, as per this example:

http://acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/tsb/tsb_03D-159.pdf

I don't know if Honda specifically does, but it'd be worth verifying in the owner's manual before doing it.

http://www.artsautomotive.com/GenuineFluids.htm

Well my "real world" experience with an engine flush showed no problems with it. It just cleaned out the gunk that had built up over time.

BTW.. your link doesn't work (at least it didn't for me). Please repost it so I can see what you are talkin' about up there.

Pretty much, in MY OWN PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, I haven't had any problems with it. It was only done one time and no harm came to my engine. Car still runs like a champ! (11 years and counting :thumb: :D )






EDIT: here is the link http://acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/tsb/tsb_03D-159.pdf

Looks to me like they are referring to some kind of "power flush" system (I know that there are some that force pressure into your crackcase to clean it...) This "additive" does it on its own just be heating it up with the vehicle running for 20 mins.



General Motors is aware that some companies are marketing tools and equipment to support engine crankcase flush procedures. GM does NOT endorse or recommend crankcase flushing for any of its gasoline engines. Analysis of some of the materials used for crankcase flushing procedures indicates incompatibility with GM engine components and the potential for damage to some engine seals and bearings. Damage to engine components resulting from
crankcase flushing procedures is not covered under the terms of the New Vehicle Warranty.

Pretty much my T-Bird was well out of warranty when I flushed it (I did it when the car was 9 years old) and on top of that if under warranty the Manufactuer would have to PROVE that the flush caused the failure described above.

To date, no such lawsuit has EVER been filed against AMSOIL and won on behalf of the manufactuers. Honestly, this sounds like a "scare tactic" to keep folks reigned in (which does generally work whenever you toss the words "void the warranty")

[mechmike0034]

Well my "real world" experience with an engine flush showed no problems with it. It just cleaned out the gunk that had built up over time.

OK...


BTW.. your link doesn't work (at least it didn't for me). Please repost it so I can see what you are talkin' about up there.

Done, sorry for the fat-fingered code...


Pretty much, in MY OWN PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, I haven't had any problems with it. It was only done one time and no harm came to my engine. Car still runs like a champ! (11 years and counting :thumb: :D )

I'm glad it worked for you.


Looks to me like they are referring to some kind of "power flush" system (I know that there are some that force pressure into your crackcase to clean it...) This "additive" does it on its own just be heating it up with the vehicle running for 20 mins.

OK - let's go back to the bulletin:


GM does NOT endorse or recommend crankcase flushing for any of its gasoline engines. Analysis of some of the materials used for crankcase flushing procedures indicates incompatibility with GM engine components and the potential for damage to some engine seals and bearings.

Some of the materials (meaning the flush chemical) were indicated to be incompatible according to the bulletin. The manner in which that material (again, the flush chemical) is introduced into the crankcase is irrelevant. The fact that the possibility of having a problem exists according to the folks who engineered and designed the vehicle is enough to keep me personally from recommending any sort of crankcase flush to anyone. The only thing that should ever be introduced into any engine's crankcase is the correct quantity of engine oil which meets or exceeds the vehicle manufacturer's published specifications.


Pretty much my T-Bird was well out of warranty when I flushed it (I did it when the car was 9 years old) and on top of that if under warranty the Manufactuer would have to PROVE that the flush caused the failure described above.

To date, no such lawsuit has EVER been filed against AMSOIL and won on behalf of the manufactuers. Honestly, this sounds like a "scare tactic" to keep folks reigned in (which does generally work whenever you toss the words "void the warranty")

Again, I am glad you had success, and I sincerly mean you no disrespect, but you are using your real-world experience with a single older out-of-warranty vehicle of a different engine design built by a different manufacturer as a standard for comparison.

All engines are not the same. All oil seals are not the same. All engine bearings are not the same. One size does not necessarily fit all.

Show me a car manufacturer's (ANY of them that sell cars or light trucks in the US) Technical Service Bulletin endorsing engine oil flushing and I'll change my point of view, but, until then, I must respectfully disagree with yours.

[DarkFury]

OK - let's go back to the bulletin:



Some of the materials (meaning the flush chemical) were indicated to be incompatible according to the bulletin. The manner in which that material (again, the flush chemical) is introduced into the crankcase is irrelevant. The fact that the possibility of having a problem exists according to the folks who engineered and designed the vehicle is enough to keep me personally from recommending any sort of crankcase flush to anyone. The only thing that should ever be introduced into any engine's crankcase is the correct quantity of engine oil which meets or exceeds the vehicle manufacturer's published specifications.



Again, I am glad you had success, and I sincerly mean you no disrespect, but you are using your real-world experience with a single older out-of-warranty vehicle of a different engine design built by a different manufacturer as a standard for comparison.

All engines are not the same. All oil seals are not the same. All engine bearings are not the same. One size does not necessarily fit all.

Show me a car manufacturer's (ANY of them that sell cars or light trucks in the US) Technical Service Bulletin endorsing engine oil flushing and I'll change my point of view, but, until then, I must respectfully disagree with yours.
C'mon MM34...

I already know that no manufactuer is gonna endorse any "non manufactuer" modifications to their product. That is just a given. I would be surprised if you would ever find a TSB endorsing a non OEM procedure like this. Would the manufactuer endorse the aftermarket modding of an engine? Probably not... but do folks still mod their engines? Of course they do... and not every mod will instantly mean "engine is gonna die now because you did that".

But please realize... AMSOIL is the oldest "synthetic oil" manufactuer in the USA (even older than Mobil 1... which came out with their synthetic product about a year later.) They really do understand their product as it relates to gas engines and they stand behind it. (Pretty much their technology started with airplane engines and eventually came to car/truck engines.) I'm pretty confident that they have thouroughly tested their product to ensure that it is not harmful to a gas engine as long as you follow the proper procedure for using the product.

If you can PROVE that their additive destroyed your engine, then they will cover the cost of your repairs. That is part of their warranty/guarantee. Yet and still... the manufactuers will always discourage anything that seems to PROMOTE longer engine life just to get you back into their facilities (how else are they gonna stay in business if they can't keep customers coming back for service or to buy new cars?)

Here is a copy of their warranty: http://www.amsoil.com/warranty.aspx

But hey, you do whatever you want with your vehicle... I'm just sharing my own personal experiences and opinions for folks here to make up their own minds (its one thing to just talk about a product, at least I'm sharing "personal experience" with it.)

If you are afraid to try the product, then by all means... don't. However, this product has been out for well over a decade now and to date no "blown engine seals" have ever been reported and attributed to this product to date (you go find me one and then we can further discuss that at length).

I pretty much say... if it is out of warranty, whatever you do to your car is up to you. The dealer isn't gonna pay for anything after the warranty is over anyways. I realize that not all engines are the same, but dayuum... read up on it first and then make a decision, cause if you only go by what the manufactuers tell you... well sometimes they are not always right as well (as I've had previous vehicles damaged by the dealer's service shops before.) Yes, I take their "recommendations" in mind, but ultimately I decide on how much risk I'm willing to take, and so far, the risk is panning out for me as from everything I've read, seen and hear points to the fact that this is a good product and has much support behind it (not some "fly by night" joint like "Slick 50" or other "infomercial" products).

I'm just putting the info out there... folks can decide for themselves. But thanks for sharing that info on the TSB as it is always good to be aware of what everyone has to say about an issue when making a decision.

[mechmike0034]

Point(s) taken, but if I owned that vehicle it'd get by-the-owner's-manual documented maintenance for the duration of the five-year, 60K mile warranty.

I don't have an ax to grind with Amsoil or anyone else. My question when "going outside the box" with regards to manufacturer's published maintenance information is:

Is the potential gain worth the potential risk?

As you know, the answer varies.

Here's a (somewhat) parallel - I was asked on another board about lightened wrist pins (these are what holds the piston to the connecting rod) in the interest of greater engine performance. To me, what little you'd stand to gain performance-wise by lightening a wrist pin isn't worth the risk of severe engine damage if one lets go at 6000+ RPM...

Be conservative... Be especially conservative while someone else is footing the bill (meaning while manufacturer's warranty applies).

[DarkFury]

Point(s) taken, but if I owned that vehicle it'd get by-the-owner's-manual documented maintenance for the duration of the five-year, 60K mile warranty.

I don't have an ax to grind with Amsoil or anyone else. My question when "going outside the box" with regards to manufacturer's published maintenance information is:

Is the potential gain worth the potential risk?

As you know, the answer varies.

In my case in this circumstance... the answer is "YES". The potential gain IS worth the risk. (since in this case I feel that the risk is NEGLIGIBLE, since it is only the "fear of risk" working here.) Honestly, the USA should adopt some European standards when it comes to oil and oil maintenance, however that isn't very "lucrative" for the manufactuers (and they know that). I've satisfied my questions as to whether or not this was the right decision and so far, so good.

And I feel fine by that answer. Until it bites me in the butt, I'll continue to feel that way.

So I guess if we come back in 10 more years and everything is ok (i.e. nothing went wrong)... will you continue to stand by your choice?

Honestly, some folks LIKE being led by the rope that the Manufactuers put out there... makes 'em feel "safe and comfortable". But all the while... there is no "free" lunch and either way, they are still paying for that comfort. In the end, that comfort can only last for so long (i.e. warranties expire) and this converstation started because you said I did something to an "expired warranty" vehicle that didn't meet what the manufactuer said... (oh the IRONY!!! :heh: :heh: :heh: )

The same vehicle which the manufactuer put a part on that they KNEW would fail.. yet never said anything about publicly. And you feel that you can actually trust them 100%. PFFFFT!!! Personally, I don't trust them... as they are only in it for the profit (it's not like they DON'T want your car to break down...so you can come back and buy another one from them.)

Either way, I guess that is the beauty of "free choice"... isn't it? :D

[Napoleon54]

Also, as far as getting rid of waste oil (if you change your oil yourself)... only Wal-mart and Auto Zone will readily accept used oil... .

I know that around here any place that generates used oil and thus is equipped for storage and disposal of it (ex. quicklubes, dealerships, repair shops, etc) HAS to accept used oil from anybody for no charge. Maybe it's a state law or something, I dunno.

[Napoleon54]

Regarding engine flushes- If they were indeed a good idea, I'm sure just about every manufacturer would be more than happy to jump on the bandwagon, offer it as a service in their shops and add it to the list of recomended maintenence. Not only to make money from it, but to extend the life expentancy of their vehicles and thus appeal more to consumers.

I'm gussing that if parafins are the concern (as mentioned at one point by DF), then the flush chemical is probably just regular old xylene, which is present in significant quantities in regular old gasoline. So perhaps an "engine flush" could be seen as simply dumping a bit of regular unleaded in the engine and running it at idle before doing an oil change. Though maybe some proprietary additives are included to prevent drying out the gaskets or something, which I would expect to be a side effect of adding xylene to the oil. :shrug:

[DarkFury]

I know that around here any place that generates used oil and thus is equipped for storage and disposal of it (ex. quicklubes, dealerships, repair shops, etc) HAS to accept used oil from anybody for no charge. Maybe it's a state law or something, I dunno.
Here in Indianapolis, they won't accept it.

I've tried... and they told me "Take it to Wal-mart or AutoZone... we only dispose of our own oil."

I've asked at least 3 shops this, and got the same answer.

[DarkFury]

Regarding engine flushes- If they were indeed a good idea, I'm sure just about every manufacturer would be more than happy to jump on the bandwagon, offer it as a service in their shops and add it to the list of recomended maintenence. Not only to make money from it, but to extend the life expentancy of their vehicles and thus appeal more to consumers.
While this may be true, I think you are missing one critical point here... Most manufactuers also are not pushing the use of "synthetic oils" even though those oils have a decent track record so far of prolonging the life of an engine. Yes, there are a few cars that come with synthetics as "standard fill", but even on those, they are still recommending 3/3000, even though we know that the ability to go longer is there.

The engine flush is mostly done to convert over from conventional oil to synthetic... just to get rid of the gunk that builds up over the years in conventional oil. Dealers want to keep selling folks on the 3 month/3000 mile oil change, hence they are not really promoting extended oil drains and oil maintenance (i.e. oil testing and evaluation). Therefore, I don't see them offering this type of engine flush service anytime soon, especially since it mostly applies to vehicles that are usually out of the normal warranty period.

Please realize, you don't have to do an engine flush on a relatively new/clean engine (if you chose to do one)... my T-Bird had 75,000 miles on it when I did my engine flush... and it was far outside the warranty period. At that point, most folks try to stay away from the dealers anyways (at least I do...) cause generally that is when they really start rapin' you over service.

As far as making them extra money, I think that they see the writing on the wall that if they go this route they are gonna cut their own "oil service at 3/3000 miles" throats, hence I don't expect to see that happen any time soon.