Car not driven or turned on for almost a year....

[guiseppewv]

How bad is that? I know the car has two flat tires now. I am sure the brakes and pads are shot. How bad is it on the engine, drive train, seals, belts, etc... to be out of commission for year? The car had regular maintenance done until the spring of '08 when it was left sitting around.

Thanks!

[mechmike0034]

What kind of car? What year? Garaged or sitting outside?

[renovation]

What kind of car? What year? Garaged or sitting outside? i was thinking the very same thing ?
also what motor and if a automatic or stick.

[guiseppewv]

1994 Honda Accord EX

It was not stored in a garage. Automatic, 2.2l vtec

[uncledaddy]

Here's what I would do:

*Watch out for the spiders*

1. Change the oil and filter, just to make sure you remove any condensation that may have built up in the pan.
2. Check belts and hoses for dry-rotting and cracking. Replace as needed.
3. Check all other fluid levels and condition, like coolant and trans.
4. Remove the fuel filler cap and smell inside. If it smells like varnish, drain the fuel tank and fill with fresh fuel
5. Change the fuel filter for the same reasons as 1 and 4.
6. Pull the plugs and check them out. Change if it looks like they may be rusted out and hope the cylinders don't look the same. :D
7. Disable the distributor, (disconnect the connector), connect a charger to the battery, and crank the engine until you build up some oil pressure and get it circulating again.
8. Reconnect everything and crank her up.

If the engine ran fine when it was parked, it should run fine after you do all of the above. You shouldn't have any problems as long as the engine was sealed and the hood closed. Worst I've seen was bad plugs, a little condensation in the pan, and fuel that turned bad.

[renovation]

my worrys are corrosion from sitting and age of car. look under the car and make sure the floor pan is still solid. i jump the car and see if it turns over. find out why it has sat for the last year. it better be dirt cheap that car is 15 years old.
im sure mechmike can give you other things to look for. im not owned or worked on very many import cars . last import i owned was a volvo and it was years ago . so long ago it had carberators. edit - forgot about my 89 chrysler eagle-galant i owned some years ago

[guiseppewv]

I am worried about the condition of the car too. I figured I would ask. The car was sitting around because an elderly man stopped driving.

Side note: Do either you or MechMike know of a mechanic in the DC metro area, preferably MD, that would be able to do look at/inspect a car I am thinking about purchasing? I haven't found a car yet but it wouldn't hurt to have that info before I do. Thanks!

[renovation]

pm sent !

[Daedalus]

One of my cars has been sitting in my garage for a bit over 5 years now. I can't remember how full the gas tank is, but no question it will have to be drained. I work on it as a hobby..an hour or two here and there. After spending a day trying to find a shop that can test alternators, I bolted the alternator onto the engine tonight and freed up another stand to start working on the tranny. All this for a car that's worth maybe $1000. :dead:

[renovation]

find a shop that can test alternatorsa auto parts store would of been you friend on testing the alternator same with car starters ! just look for a Napa auto parts store.
good place to start -http://www.napaautocare.com/Locator/StoreLocator.aspx

[Daedalus]

Well, yeah, that's what I thought too. The only Napa near me is too small, doesn't have the machine. So I went to Autozone, they didn't know how to use the machine. I went to Kragen next, they didn't have the right adapter. Then Pep Boys; their machine has been broken for months. Another Kragen, but they didn't test it right (I could tell, but the guy was being a jerk so I didn't feel like trying to tell him how to do his job). Finally went to another Pep Boys and they got it right. They're not exactly close, but I will probably go there from now on when I need to stock up on fluids and cleaners.

[mechmike0034]

Here's what I would do:

*Watch out for the spiders*

1. Change the oil and filter, just to make sure you remove any condensation that may have built up in the pan.
2. Check belts and hoses for dry-rotting and cracking. Replace as needed.
3. Check all other fluid levels and condition, like coolant and trans.
4. Remove the fuel filler cap and smell inside. If it smells like varnish, drain the fuel tank and fill with fresh fuel
5. Change the fuel filter for the same reasons as 1 and 4.
6. Pull the plugs and check them out. Change if it looks like they may be rusted out and hope the cylinders don't look the same. :D
7. Disable the distributor, (disconnect the connector), connect a charger to the battery, and crank the engine until you build up some oil pressure and get it circulating again.
8. Reconnect everything and crank her up.

If the engine ran fine when it was parked, it should run fine after you do all of the above. You shouldn't have any problems as long as the engine was sealed and the hood closed. Worst I've seen was bad plugs, a little condensation in the pan, and fuel that turned bad.

:stupid: except...

Don't yank the plugs. You stand a greater risk of pulling the plug threads out of the aluminum head. If it was running OK when it was parked, they'll be fine.

Remove the battery from the car, inspect and clean it, recharge it (most auto parts stores will test/charge for free) or replace it if you have any doubts. If the battery is older than about two or three years plus has been sitting for a year I'd just replace it and be done with it.

The problem with in-car jumping and/or charging is that it increases the likelihood of damage to the charging or electrical system in the event the charger or jumper cables are hooked up backwards, even for a second. Plus, alternators/generators are designed to keep a fully charged battery up and replenish normal battery use, NOT to recharge stone-dead batteries. An alternator/generator rated at 100 amps of output will safely put out about half that amount continuously. Recharging a dead battery will shorten the alternator/generator's potential life.

Where in MD are you? Montgomery Co? Let me know where you are and I'll find a shop to check your car out. What are you looking at?

[uncledaddy]

:stupid: except...

Don't yank the plugs. You stand a greater risk of pulling the plug threads out of the aluminum head. If it was running OK when it was parked, they'll be fine.

Remove the battery from the car, inspect and clean it, recharge it (most auto parts stores will test/charge for free) or replace it if you have any doubts. If the battery is older than about two or three years plus has been sitting for a year I'd just replace it and be done with it.

That is true about the plugs, but I would expect that after a longer period than just about a year. I haven't personally had the issue. I believe it is a debated topic regarding the steel plug threads and the aluminum head. I believe Motor magazine did a study and had an article about this.

Easy preventative measure, coat threads of plug with an anti-seize compound.

And you're right about the battery. I totally skipped that part. :D My reference to the charger was just to crank the engine to build up oil pressure. Of course, like you've mentioned, you must be careful about connecting cables. :)

[mechmike0034]

Easy preventative measure, coat threads of plug with an anti-seize compound.

Not a good idea:

ACDelco says:


Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.

Autolite says:


We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Anti seize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If anti seize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition. Anti seize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder heads for a long period of time.

[uncledaddy]

Oh, I didn't mean to imply that I practice this, though I know many GM techs that do. I never believed in it. The only thing that I do is ensure that the threads are clean, and I allow the heads to cool before attempting to remove plugs. The article pushes anti-seize. I should have mentioned that I do not recommend as well.

[attgig]

I would just avoid it all together if you're thinking about buying it. get something else.

[guiseppewv]

I appreciate all the info, guys! As always you all are awesome!




Where in MD are you? Montgomery Co? Let me know where you are and I'll find a shop to check your car out. What are you looking at?

I am just north of DC but I am looking at cars in B-more, Rockville/Bethesda, and the Arlington/Alexandria areas.

[johnnymk]

I bought the car that I am now driving at the GSA auction in BelAir, Md almost a year ago. http://www.bscamerica.com

[guiseppewv]

Where in MD are you? Montgomery Co? Let me know where you are and I'll find a shop to check your car out. What are you looking at?

Mechmike - I am looking at cars in NoVA - Vienna, Falls Church, Arlington, and Alexandria. I am mainly looking at Honda Accords and Civics because I am more familiar with working on them. Do you know a mechanic/shop in the area that would be able to do a thorough check-up on a potential purchase?

[mechmike0034]

Mechmike - I am looking at cars in NoVA - Vienna, Falls Church, Arlington, and Alexandria. I am mainly looking at Honda Accords and Civics because I am more familiar with working on them. Do you know a mechanic/shop in the area that would be able to do a thorough check-up on a potential purchase?

I do not know this shop personally, but they come highly recommended:

http://www.eurasianservicecenter.com/services.html

[guiseppewv]

Thanks! I appreciate it!