View Full Version : 2004 Honda Civic LX brake pads
Cheesypuff
06-17-2010, 12:26 PM
So I'm gonna be changing my brake pads pretty soon, and I'm gonna change them with my landlord (he has the tools to change them) Is there anything I really need to know about changing the brakes? I've seen a few youtube video's and it looks pretty straight forward.
So what brand of brake pads do you use? Whats a good price to pay?
All I know is the mechanic is gonna charge me $200 to change my pads, and online, i've seen pads for around $30-50. So i know they're really overcharging me. what do y'all think?
renovation
06-18-2010, 06:39 AM
just take the rotors and drums if it has drums in the rear and you do the rears brakes . into a auto parts and have them turned.
I say just go to your local auto parts and get the pads.
Prngr44
06-18-2010, 07:18 AM
Dig around a little bit too. I've seen a few rebate deals recently on pads; not sure if there are any currently active.
After I changed my brake pads for the first time I felt like a big schmuck for paying for them all those years. It was cake.
Cheesypuff
06-18-2010, 09:30 AM
i just had my rotors changed about 40k ago, so they should still be good i think.
prngr44, this is gonna be my first time changing them, you have any tips?
Prngr44
06-18-2010, 10:21 AM
i just had my rotors changed about 40k ago, so they should still be good i think.
prngr44, this is gonna be my first time changing them, you have any tips?
You'll still want to get your rotors turned in case there's any unevenness from the former brake pads.
As far as tips: If your buddy doesn't have any C/D clamps that's the only tool I didn't really have when I did mine that I wished I did. You'll also leak out some brake fluid so be prepared to clean up a little of that. Depending on how much you leak out, you may have to add some back into the system.
It seriously was ridiculously easy to do. The most time consuming part for me was taking the rotors up to get turned.
renovation
06-18-2010, 11:05 AM
You'll still want to get your rotors turned in case there's any unevenness from the former brake pads.
after your done and you don't turn them you could end up with a brake pedal pulsation or worse.
the large c clamp is used to compress the caliper piston use the old pad as a spacer .and place it between the caliper piston or pistons. then tighten the clamp to push the piston back into the caliper .make sure the cap is off the master cylinder so the brake fluid can reverse flow into the master cylinder .
if the price of new brake hardware is reasonable I'd buy it rather then reuse the old pins and clips. also use lithium grease on the pins. as your first time doing brakes it should only take about 1 -2 hours start to finish including getting rotors turned /machined at the shop.
fyi dish soap like dawn used without water. works just as good as goop hand soap at cleaning your hands of dirt and grease. when your all done you'll go i just saved myself $125 - $150 and you can still take your helper out for a nice lunch.
mechmike0034
06-18-2010, 07:54 PM
You'll still want to get your rotors turned in case there's any unevenness from the former brake pads.
I beg to differ...
If there's no existing reason to resurface the rotors, meaning that there is currently no pulsation under braking, leave them alone. Turning them makes them thinner and lighter which in turn can affect their ability to dissipate heat.
Plus, most "techs" that resurface rotors don't do it properly and can sometimes leave too rough a surface finish. Nobody cleans and calibrates their brake lathes nor checks the lathe arbor for excessive runout. A pad-polished contact surface is much smoother than what can be achieved on most brake lathes.
mechmike0034
06-18-2010, 08:10 PM
after your done and you don't turn them you could end up with a brake pedal pulsation or worse.
Worse like what? Rotors for most vehicles are cheap any more - if there's a question, replace them with good quality replacement parts.
the large c clamp is used to compress the caliper piston use the old pad as a spacer .and place it between the caliper piston or pistons. then tighten the clamp to push the piston back into the caliper .make sure the cap is off the master cylinder so the brake fluid can reverse flow into the master cylinder.
Sure, go ahead and push the heat-decomposed and moisture-laden fluid (moisture accumulates at the lowest points in the system...) back into the ABS modulator... I bet that's a real inexpensive part to replace after it corrodes or gums up.
Open the bleeder when pushing the caliper piston back in, and expel the old fluid into a suitable container. Don't push it back into the rest of the system. Top the master cylinder up with fresh fluid.
if the price of new brake hardware is reasonable I'd buy it rather then reuse the old pins and clips. also use lithium grease on the pins.
No, use high temp silicone brake lube (ACDelco 10-4019 or equivalent) on all metal-to-metal contact points.
as your first time doing brakes it should only take about 1 -2 hours start to finish including getting rotors turned /machined at the shop
See my note about turning rotors above...
renovation
06-18-2010, 08:55 PM
mechmike0034
never mine pm sent !
Cheesypuff
06-18-2010, 09:53 PM
So I choose not to get my rotors tuned. I last replaced them around 40k ago, and there isn't any pulsation now. shrug?
I also bought some rotor cleaner to clean off the rotor after i replace. good idea? bad idea?
anywho...i ended up going to autozone and buying some duralast gold ceramic pads. I don't know how much i believe the guy, but he said ceramic pads are better than the semi-metallics because of less dust and less sound? shrug. it was $18 vs $39, and i was thinking since this is my first brake pad replacement, i'd go all out with the $39 pads. My assumption was more money better quality?
it's like lasik eye surgery, you expect to pay a certain price for the service, you wouldn't go to a $50 lasik surgeon would you? This was my line of thinking with brake pads...price = quality? Is this true? not true?
anywho, i'm gonna be replacing the brakes 2 weeks from now (thats when my landlord is gonna have his tools back), so i'll update y'all when it happens. *crosses fingers*
mechmike0034
06-19-2010, 07:25 AM
So I choose not to get my rotors tuned. I last replaced them around 40k ago, and there isn't any pulsation now. shrug?
If they pulse later, replace them. With only 40K on them you should be good to go. I wouldn't turn them.
I also bought some rotor cleaner to clean off the rotor after i replace. good idea? bad idea?
I generally take the wheel off and then spray the brake and rotor off with a water hose just to blast any dust off. I let it dry for five or ten minutes, and then change the pads. Brake cleaner is handy, but you may not need it. You can use it to clean any metal-to-metal contact points of dust and old brake grease.
anywho...i ended up going to autozone and buying some duralast gold ceramic pads. I don't know how much i believe the guy, but he said ceramic pads are better than the semi-metallics because of less dust and less sound? shrug. it was $18 vs $39, and i was thinking since this is my first brake pad replacement, i'd go all out with the $39 pads. My assumption was more money better quality?
OE Honda pads are ceramic. I don't like Duralast personally. I'd go with Honda OE, or ACDelco DuraStop. I have used the DuraStop pads on Hondas (just put a second set on my daughter's Accord) and been pleased with low noise, pedal feel, and pad life. They also come with new hardware.
You MOSTLY get what you pay for, but that's painting things with a broad brush.
Here's a one-page .pdf (http://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B-4g34fnOCagNDIwMzU2YTctYzBmNy00NjVmLWI0NGYtNTE2MGEzYzk1MmI5&hl=en) that gives the factory procedure for pad replacement, with a line drawing.
Cheesypuff
06-20-2010, 12:20 AM
thx mm, i'm gonna print that out =)
Cheesypuff
06-24-2010, 06:28 PM
SO, I changed my pads...and everything went well! i felt pretty accomplished i was able to do it, and also glad i saved a bit of money.
something worried me a little, my old pads looked a bit worn unevenly. it look like it was worn in a slight angle, and reason why this would be, is this bad, how do i fix it?
renovation
06-24-2010, 06:31 PM
SO, I changed my pads...and everything went well! i felt pretty accomplished i was able to do it, and also glad i saved a bit of money.
something worried me a little, my old pads looked a bit worn unevenly. it look like it was worn in a slight angle, and reason why this would be, is this bad, how do i fix it?
picture please !
Prngr44
06-25-2010, 06:49 AM
SO, I changed my pads...and everything went well! i felt pretty accomplished i was able to do it, and also glad i saved a bit of money.
something worried me a little, my old pads looked a bit worn unevenly. it look like it was worn in a slight angle, and reason why this would be, is this bad, how do i fix it?
Your car is pigeon toed.
;)
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