View Full Version : Klipsch Question for you guys
09-29-2001, 09:25 PM
I was wondering... I just purchased the Klipsch KSW-15 15inch(800watt) subwoofer, a pair of quintet surround speakers, and the KSC-C1 center channel speaker. I'm still waiting for the gear though. My question is how well do these products work? Does anyone have these particular items and could they tell me if they were worth the purchase..
Thanks a Bunch
09-30-2001, 12:16 AM
You are already starting off on the wrong foot. In order to have a home theater properly set up, you need to timber match your fronts and center at a minimum. This means that your speakers will have the same version of the tractrix horn in all models. The quintet will not match up with any speaker other than the quintet. As for your choice in sub the ksw15 is a relatively nice sub, We used to sell it for $699 and didnt move that many of them, because at that same price you could get some nicer/ more powerful subs.
The only way to determine if Klipsch are right for you is to go to a store that carries them and listen. Either you love Klispch or you hate them. They are extremely tinny which many people cant stand. If you took a poll of home theater sales people, you would find a mixed bag, as to who owned klipsch and who doesnt.
Personally, I am a big energy proponent, but I have a ksw12 sub. Why? Its a great sub. Has good recovery time and a good range, plus it sounds good. There is also an issue of what you are using to power these puppies? You have to start with a good receiver and good speakers to get good sound. As I tell all my customers, if you have crappy speakers and a crappy receiver, you will get crappy sound. If you were to switch to better speakers the sound would improve as it would if you switched to a better receiver (using the crappy speakers). To get the best sound, you need to have all parts of the equation. Good equipment, good speakers, and good cabling.
I would recommend going into your local Good Guys or other authorized Klipsch reseller, and just listen to them. Bring in some music that you know well. If the sales person asks, which they will, tell them point blank that you are just looking and that all you want to do is test out the equipment. Dont waste their time showing you the equipment...it will piss them off, and they can smell you coming from miles away. Trust me. If you go into Good guys tell them you were looking at Goodguys.com. The two arent affiliated at all, just the same parent company, but nothing else (you cant do anything in the stores) Listen to the Klipsch. Listen to the Energy. Liten to the Polk. Listen to the Boston. Make sure that you are getting what sounds the best to you. The thing about speakers is, that the only reason that you need to buy new ones sooner than 15 years is if you dont like the style or you mistreat them. The speaker makers know that and as a result, you see the high prices. Also, FYI, most of the speakers are actually priced at double the cost. This means that getting 30% off of the speakers should be an easy feat so long as you are buying other things there. As for the extended warranties on speakers. I highly recommend it for a couple of reasons.
1. If your receiver goes, generally your speakers will too
2. take most new DD or DTS movies (U-571 for example) and there are times when the sound drops down alot. Generally everyone turns up the volume at these points, and then the action resumes and BOOM you have blown your speakers.
3. Most guarantees cover blowing your speakers, which the manufactures never cover
4. After 7 years the manufacturers generally stop making the parts for your speakers...and the speakers are more likely to go, because of the age. Thus, if you have a replacement guarantee you will end up with new speakers at this point.
Now, I am obviously not selling a damn thing here. I am just trying to help you out. I am sure you have gone to Klipsch's website and seen their authorized dealer warning. It is a policy that they enforce...so dont buy from unauthorized individuals. Unless, of course, the price is too good. But then again, you get what you buy.
09-30-2001, 09:00 PM
Well.. I'm running a Sony STR-845 receiver. Yea.. something about no continuous power of 100 watts per channel but then again someone else told me that's all saleperson jargin.
So you're saying that if I buy some other brand model for the center and front speakers then I'm totally going the wrong way???
Yes, you really need to have the fronts and centers match. You want the sound panning from left to right to be smooth. If not, then your sound will seem disconnected and distracting.
10-01-2001, 05:22 PM
OK - whoever told you that it was all salesperson jargon hasnt got a clue in the world. I dont care if they are a harvard trained lawyer or an engineer from MIT, they dont know the equipment. With recievers there are several things. First, you have what is known as a chip amplified receiver. There are two main types of receiversn which are either discrete amplified or chip amplified. Discrete amplified receivers have a separate amp for each channel. This provides for less strain on the unit, cleaner sound (lower THD), and a better all round machine. Chip amplified means that you have either 1 or 3 amps, which are split by a chip into different channels. Most chip amp are 1 split 5 ways. The slightly more expensive chip amps have 1 amp for each front channel and 1 amp for the center and rears. Either way, it is not something you want.
Next, you have Continuous vs. Peak rated - Peak rating is basically the manufacturer taking the machine and seeking what the receiver is capable of putting out in a lab, for a scientifically significant period. They are not listening to the machine, but rather watching its output on a machine. The receiver is generally shot and it would have been unlistenable to the human ear. (As in you wouldnt have wanted to hear it, not that you couldnt hear it.) They are looking for the highest sustained point. Compare this with a contiunous rated machine whereby they look at what the machine is constantly able to put out. Generally the difference in the rating is 20 - 40 watts. Thus, the reason why a 60 watt HK could beat a "100 watt" sony. I always told people to imagine a car. If you are going at a car at 100mph and step on the gas, you expect the car to keep on accelerating if you are told the car can go faster. Now imagine the dealer told you that this car is capable of hitting 100, but the closest you ever get is 60 (due to the engine, not your lack of trying) you would be kind of annoyed. Now compare that with a car where you are told 100 and you can hit 100 without breaking a sweat. The car actually still has some speed left should you need it. I also always had customers who said, we dont need that much power, we never listen to our stereo loud. The truth is that the more power you have, the cleaner it will sound at lower volumes. Imagine driving an automatic vs. a stick when trying to maintain 10 mph. ON the manual you have to constantly do leg work to maintain the speed. With the automatic, there is no such work. You dont have to push in the clutch and let it out to prevent from stalling. The receiver has an easier time and lets in less distortion when it has a bigger well to pull from.
Sony has three line ups. They have their ES series (STRV or STRDA - STRV are this years and last...before that was the strda) which are their top of the line receivers. These are discrete amplified and continuous power rated. Next, is the B series, STRDB - which are the intermediate lineup. SOny took some ES features such as the discrete amplification and slighlty larger heat sinks and coupled it with the cheaper chasis...thus it is a step up from the bottom, but not quite the best. Finally you have the STRDE line up, which includes your STRDE845 receiver. These are chip amplified peak rated machines.
As for timbre matching, the easiest way to think of it is...I am standing to your left talking in a very deep masculine voice...I walk infront of you and suddenly I have jumped an octave higher...I walk to your right and I am back down. YOu want the same sound quality across the spectrum. This means that the speakers need to have the same tweeter design, be made of the same material, and be designed to handle the full range.
Hope that helps
10-22-2001, 03:01 PM
now when you say when the reciever goes.. the speakers usually go with it? HOw does that work?
10-22-2001, 06:53 PM
If it is a surge or other electrical problem with the receiver, it will usually send a singal along the wpeaker wires which is sufficient to blow out your speakers.
10-22-2001, 09:35 PM
hm.. that's pretty discouraging to hear considering i saved up a zillion years for the klipsch stuff
10-22-2001, 10:44 PM
Hey I dont exactly know why you are discouraged. No matter what company you go with, the speakers would all go if the receiver goes in the way I described before. The choice in Klipsch speakers is completely up to you. Either you love Klipsch or you hate them. The important thing is getting a good quality receiver to go with a good set of speakers.
10-23-2001, 11:36 AM
So for the reciever that I DO have. Is it half-decent? Cuz if it's not, got any recommendations? I'm not paying over 300 bucks though.
10-24-2001, 10:22 PM
Yeah, see my post in this thread before concerning the quality of your receiver. I would return it if that is a possibility. I would try to get a RXV420 or RXV520, both are Yamahas. Or you could go with an AVR1801 by Denon. I personally am partial to Yamaha, but the Denon machine is good. Just make sure that you are get the receiver from an authorized representative otherwise you run the risk of voiding the warranty. These machines are all going ot be a bit over what you want to pay ($399 - $499), but you can see if you can find an open box machine. It will save you 20 - 30% off the machine. Not that I recommend this, but you can always have a friedn buy the machine open it and then return it. When it gets back, come in and buy it. You will just have saved yourself a bunch of money.
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