'83 Honda Accord rack & pinion R&R????????

[Hypnotist]

I've posted the following help request in 6 auto forums and haven't gotten any sigificant or helpful response to date. I have the car totally disassembled and I HAVE to get it going. It's my Mom's only car and she MUST have it to get to her medical appointments... Cancer. Does anyone here know where this question might be answered effectively? Other than G|A now, I've posted in the following forums:


Just Answer!
Automotive forums.com
10w40
About.com
AutoWebRepair.com
TrustMyMechanic.com

Please help me find the answer...

Thanks in advance!


HELP......Can't figure to how to remove the power steering type R&P assembly from a 1983 Honda Accord 4 door automatic. The Haynes manual is sorely inadequate. I've disconnected everything. The manual says to drop the unit down and rotate it out of the body. The entire r&p unit extends beyond the welded frame members which support the front suspension. Problem is, there's not enough room to fully disengage the pinion, much less rotate the unit. The welded frame members "box in" the ends so there's no way to drop down far enough to fully release. No mention in the manual about any frame removal...can't anyway...they're welded integral parts attached to the uni-body.

My dad talked to a mechanic at a local dealership who is experienced enough to have worked on this year model. The guy said he doesn't remember any difficulty...it dropped out with a little "downward and to the right" persuasion. Might have worked for him but I'm totally stuck. I can't imagine Honda making it so tough. Someone removed one once 'cause I have a rebuilt I'm HOPING to install...maybe. Any help is REALLY APPRECIATED!!!

Thanks,

Brad

[mechmike0034]

It has been ages since I was under one of these, but on most vehicles, the steering coupler (the part that actually attaches to the steering input stub on the rack itself) is made to "telescope". It will slide upwards/inwards towards the steering wheel after it has been loosened from the rack. You shoud be able to push it up itowards the steering wheel, making it "shorter" and providing clearance.

Once you are disconnected, pull the rack out of the driver's side, rotating it as necessary to clear.

Sorry I can't be of more help. If I could look at it I could probably figure it out.

[johnnymk]

I removed a rack from an 86 Grand Am recently. There was a big plastic envelope around the steering column inside the car. Since it was in a junked car, I just cut it off. After removing it, there was one bolt or nut which held the steering column to the rack. The rack was fairly easy to remove after this.

You may have already done this, though.

[Hypnotist]

It has been ages since I was under one of these, but on most vehicles, the steering coupler (the part that actually attaches to the steering input stub on the rack itself) is made to "telescope". It will slide upwards/inwards towards the steering wheel after it has been loosened from the rack. You shoud be able to push it up itowards the steering wheel, making it "shorter" and providing clearance.

Once you are disconnected, pull the rack out of the driver's side, rotating it as necessary to clear.

Sorry I can't be of more help. If I could look at it I could probably figure it out.

Thanks... the coupler is totally free of the input stub... pinch-bolt removed and completely detached. Nothing is preventing the rack assembly from dropping except the underbody frame members. R&P needs 6" to come out of the body, but the steering frame members allow for only about a 3" drop. Have you ever heard of having to remove the push rods that come out of both sides of the main body of the unit? Not sure it's even possible to remove these or whether this will free up the extra distance needed.. Seems like more of a hassle than the Honda engineers would have intended. I just really want to avoid towing it to a shop... not so much due to cost, although that's a real concern, but because I'll be admitting defeat in a way. :disa:


I removed a rack from an 86 Grand Am recently. There was a big plastic envelope around the steering column inside the car. Since it was in a junked car, I just cut it off. After removing it, there was one bolt or nut which held the steering column to the rack. The rack was fairly easy to remove after this.

You may have already done this, though.

Yeah... the problem is actually under the car... I've got it all loosened-up inside.

Thanks for the input though!

[CynJon]

Sometimes R&P units have to be slid sideways, out the wheel well. Can you post some pics that might help us understand a little better?

[johnnymk]

Have you ever heard of having to remove the push rods that come out of both sides of the main body of the unit? Not sure it's even possible to remove these or whether this will free up the extra distance needed..

Thanks for the input though!

Do you mean the inner tie rods? Or the outer tie rods?

Are the tie rods directly inline with the rack or is it some other configuration?

[Hypnotist]

CynJon said:
Sometimes R&P units have to be slid sideways, out the wheel well. Can you post some pics that might help us understand a little better?
I wish I were able to post pics... don't know how yet, not to mention I lack the system tools to do so... Sorry.

The removal direction IS out the side and from under the wheel-well... once the pinion rod is disengaged from the body input... that's my problem though, I can't get the pinion rod out of the body because it's longer than the distance to the frame members... the, I got 3" of drop, but need 6" problem.



Do you mean the inner tie rods? Or the outer tie rods?

Are the tie rods directly inline with the rack or is it some other configuration?

The outer rods are those that attach to the ball joints on one end, and the inner rods on the opposite end (screwed on), I believe. The inner rods are those that are integrated into the R&P assembly itself, and they move in and out of the hydralic body. My replacement unit arrived with the inner rods as a part of the unit. All the rods are configured in an absolute straight line.

[mechmike0034]

FWIW, my aftermarket service information says:



1. Remove steering shaft connector bottom bolt. Pull connector off pinion shaft. Raise and support front of vehicle. Remove front wheels.
2. Remove cotter pins and ball joint nuts. Using a ball joint remover, remove tie rod ends fromsteering knuckles.
3. Place manual transmission in 1st or 3rd and remove shift rod yoke bolt. Remove engine crossmember. Disconnect shift lever torque arm from manual transmission.
4. Remove exhaust manifold-to-header pipe nuts. Push rack to extreme right (simulate a left turn). Remove gearbox brackets. Lower the gearbox so pinion shaft end comes out of frame hole.
5. Rotate gearbox 180° forward until pinion shaft points rearward. Move gear right until left tie rod clears exhaust pipe. Remove through left side of vehicle.

[johnnymk]

FWIW, my aftermarket service information says:

Wow, It looks a little complicated. Turning the gearbox 180 degrees, too. I hope there are no vent holes in the gearbox.

[mechmike0034]

Wow, It looks a little complicated. Turning the gearbox 180 degrees, too. I hope there are no vent holes in the gearbox.

I think they are referring to the rack unit rather than the transmission from reading the info, but I could be wrong. Like I posted earlier - if I could SEE it, I could figure out how to get it out of there...

[rasetsu]

Try posting here.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Accord/

[Hypnotist]

FWIW, my aftermarket service information says:

Yep, my Haynes manual says about the same. The only difference is that they say turn to the extreme RIGHT!? Hmmm... still doesn't solve the lack of distance problem. I appreciate your extra effort though!

[Hypnotist]

Try posting here.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Accord/

Thanks for the link!