Paging Dr. Mechmike...

[gear02]

I apologize if this sounds like the automotive version of "How do I clean my computer of all these viruses I opened."

So I have a 2002 Honda Civic. It has barely 13000 miles. So I have a few questions.

1) Considering that oil changes ask for 3 months or 3000 miles (4000 if you use a synthetic oil) and the fact that its literally taking 6 months to get 3000 miles, do I really need to change my oil every 3 months?

2) Due to my granny-like driving levels, I'm pretty much out of wack from my recommended maintenance schedule. Should I base it on time or mileage?

3) What exactly is a "tune up"

4) I think my car needs an alignment. I find that I have to hold the wheel slightly right of center to go straight...is that just me or should I have it looked?

5) At this stage of my car (3 years, 13000 miles), what should I look at?

TIA, and really anyone can help me out. I may be technical competant, but I'm an automotive newbie.

[Airencracken]

3 years and you've only driven it 13,000 mi :eek: Dude my prius just went past 51,000mi and I've had just a bit less than three years.

[DankNstickY]

geez... my 99 civic had 38k miles when i got it in 2001, and it now has about 120k miles on it. do u just drive around the block for fun a couple times a day?

[doolittle]

my 2k2 trans am only has 22k on it :)

anyway to awnser some of your questions.
unless you love your auto shop only change the oil every 3k unless your manual states otherwise. mine alternates from 3k - 6k its specific to the car.
a standard tuneup is oil and fluids changed and usually an inspection of things that wear out like belts batteries ect.
and then there is service tuneups witch covers breaks,alignment,tires rotated, transmission oil and filter ect. this type of service should also be in your manual, big one for most cars is the 60k or 30k service.
also if you take your car to the same mechanic they should have a record of everything that has been done to your veh, this can save you a few bucks on the service type tune ups, sometimes things get done before the scheduled 30k tuneup and arent needed to be done agian, ask your service guy to look at your history so you dont have to pay for the same sevices that you just paid for 6 months before.
im sure im missing some stuff, someone here will fill in the gaps :)

[bachviet]

Tune up includes a major services + timing belt + spark plugs + water pump.

[mechmike0034]

I apologize if this sounds like the automotive version of "How do I clean my computer of all these viruses I opened."

I'll look at your maintenance schedule once I am back in the office Monday afternoon and give you my patented opinionated answers. I'd rather work from the factory recommendations than give you something "off-the-cuff"...

Same Bat-time, same Bat-Channel...

[brainsmile]

I have a question. My check engine light is on and I'm not sure how serious it is.

[bachviet]

I have a question. My check engine light is on and I'm not sure how serious it is.
Usually it has something is wrong with the emission system (O2 sensor, cat, and etc). In CA, shops can't do smog check if check engine light is on.

[brainsmile]

hmmm
well I just had a smog check done a while ago. Should I spend some cash and have it looked at?

[Airencracken]

You could get a code reader...

[mechmike0034]

I have a question. My check engine light is on and I'm not sure how serious it is.

Year, make, model, engine size?

Gear, YGPM...

[mechmike0034]

I apologize if this sounds like the automotive version of "How do I clean my computer of all these viruses I opened."

So I have a 2002 Honda Civic. It has barely 13000 miles. So I have a few questions.

1) Considering that oil changes ask for 3 months or 3000 miles (4000 if you use a synthetic oil) and the fact that its literally taking 6 months to get 3000 miles, do I really need to change my oil every 3 months?

Honda's SEVERE service interval is an oil change every 5000 miles. Their NORMAL oil change interval is 10K miles (!) If it were me, I'd use Mobil1, a Honda or ACDelco filter, and change it twice a year or every 5K, whichever came first.


2) Due to my granny-like driving levels, I'm pretty much out of wack from my recommended maintenance schedule. Should I base it on time or mileage?

Here is the severe service schedule from Honda for your car at 10K and 15K miles:

Replace Brake Fluid every 36 months

Severe Maintenance Details
10,000 Miles (16,000 Kilometers) : All Applicable Models
INSPECT DRIVESHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT DUST BOOTS
INSPECT FRONT BRAKE SYSTEM
INSPECT REAR BRAKE SYSTEM
INSPECT STEERING GEAR/RACK
INSPECT STEERING RACK BOOTS
INSPECT SUSPENSION COMPONENTS
LUBRICATE DOOR HINGES & LOCKS
REPLACE ENGINE OIL
REPLACE ENGINE OIL FILTER
ROTATE TIRES

15,000 Miles (24,000 Kilometers) : All Applicable Models
REPLACE AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
REPLACE CABIN AIR FILTER
REPLACE ENGINE OIL

There's not much to it, really - a lot of "inspect" oil and filter at each, and air along with cabin air filters at 15K. I'd do the mileage stuff at the prescribed mileage, and have the brake fluid changed at three years just like it says. Brake fluid attracts moisture, so changing it every three years will keep the brake hydraulic system healthy.

Bear in mind that this is what Honda says. Your dealer likely has what they typically call an "enhanced" maintenance schedule. It is called "enhanced" primarily because it enhances service department profits. Stick with the severe schedule as printed in the back of your owners' manual and you will be fine.


3) What exactly is a "tune up"?

You won't find that term in your maintenance schedule. This is a term that, any more, is about as relevant as "inner tube". Cars used to need periodic "tune-ups" 30+ years ago. There arent any adjustments any more on most cars, and spark plugs, filters and the like should be replaced according to the factory maintenance schedule. Some folks call spark plug replacement a "tune-up". It can mean anything depending upon who is using the term, and there really isn't any standard definition any more. "Tune ups" are mostly marketing bullschitt in this day and time - see my comments re. "enhanced" maintenance schedules above.


4) I think my car needs an alignment. I find that I have to hold the wheel slightly right of center to go straight...is that just me or should I have it looked?

First, check your tire pressure, adjust it as necessary, and then drive the car. If that doesn't take the "pull" or "lead" out of the steering, then have the tires rotated. (edit here) If the tires are showing uneven wear or if they are wearing evenly but the rotation does not correct the problem then have the alignment checked.


5) At this stage of my car (3 years, 13000 miles), what should I look at?

Please refer to the maintenance schedule above, and in your owners' manual...

[gear02]

Thanks dude! :)

[mechmike0034]

Thanks dude! :)

Oops - left something out of the tire rotation/alignment explanation - re-read that section as I just edited it.

[Jihforce]

QUESTION Mechmike!! :)
I got a '03 A4, and last month I took it to the dealer because the brakes where making clicking noises. Whenever I am driving at low speeds (10mph or less) and press on the brakes, I hear this "click". Its pretty loud too. Anyway, the dealers said that i was a my front left calipers. So they greased up this particular area (don't remember the exact explanation they gave me) of the calipers and the sound went away. So 30 days later, the sound is back, not consistantly like it was before, but i hear it occasionally.
So my question is, what exactly do you suspect that to be? I'm suspecting there is more of a problem than they think there is. I want to take it in soon, but i want to have an idea as to what it could be so I can bring it up to their attention.
Thanks in advance! :)

[gear02]

QUESTION Mechmike!! :)
I got a '03 A4, and last month I took it to the dealer because the brakes where making clicking noises. Whenever I am driving at low speeds (10mph or less) and press on the brakes, I hear this "click". Its pretty loud too. Anyway, the dealers said that i was a my front left calipers. So they greased up this particular area (don't remember the exact explanation they gave me) of the calipers and the sound went away. So 30 days later, the sound is back, not consistantly like it was before, but i hear it occasionally.
So my question is, what exactly do you suspect that to be? I'm suspecting there is more of a problem than they think there is. I want to take it in soon, but i want to have an idea as to what it could be so I can bring it up to their attention.
Thanks in advance! :)

Ooo I have that click noise too on my civic, but I've found it only happens on the first brake of the drive, when the car hasn't been running for a while. I figured it's normal because all brakes afterward are fine.

[Jihforce]

Ooo I have that click noise too on my civic, but I've found it only happens on the first brake of the drive, when the car hasn't been running for a while. I figured it's normal because all brakes afterward are fine.

Really? I guess its more common than i thought. I still want to know more about what it could be. My commute involves driving over 2 tall bridges each way, I would really hate it of my brakes were not working properly :P

[mechmike0034]

QUESTION Mechmike!! :) (snipped for clarity...)
I got a '03 A4. Whenever I am driving at low speeds (10mph or less) and press on the brakes, I hear this "click". Its pretty loud too. Anyway, the dealers said that i was a my front left calipers. So they greased up this particular area (don't remember the exact explanation they gave me) of the calipers and the sound went away. So 30 days later, the sound is back, not consistantly like it was before, but i hear it occasionally.
So my question is, what exactly do you suspect that to be?

My crystal ball's in the shop, man... :)

Seriously, it sounds like the brake pad is moving slightly and clicking against the caliper, caliper hardware, or bracket. The pad has to be able to move in and out, so there is a little bit of size difference between the metal backing of the brake pad and the slots, grooves or "cutout" the pad rides in.

It is hard to describe without a picture, but think of a piece of a jigsaw puzzle that is cut to the correct shape but that is sized slightly smaller than the hole it fits in.

When the brake is applied, the metal backing of the brake pad bumps the caliper bracket, and I would suspect that this situation is the source of your noise. A little silicone brake grease dampens it (and it sounds like this is what they did) but won't completely eliminate it. IT is an annoyance, but not a safety concern nor a big deal. Perhaps your next replacement set of pads will be coated or sized slightly larger to eliminate this (if this is in fact what the problem is), but maybe not.

I could confirm this if I could see it, but it is a little tough to do anything other than make an educated guess via the forum.

[MrGreg]

4) I think my car needs an alignment. I find that I have to hold the wheel slightly right of center to go straight...is that just me or should I have it looked?


If you let go of the wheel, do you keep going in a strait line, even though the logo on the wheel isn't perfectly upright? If that's the case, learn to live with it.

On the other hand, if the car pulls to one side and you have to hold the wheel to go strait, then look at the other issues mentioned above (tire inflation, uneven wear, or alignment).

[Jihforce]

Cool Mechmike, thank you for your assestment. I'll probably just have those pads changed and see what happens. Hope that just goes away.

[brainsmile]

Year, make, model, engine size?

Gear, YGPM...YGPM

Is there a cheaper place to do a 120k mile checkup/tune up than Nissan?

Anyone have a list of what is done?

[mechmike0034]

I have a question. My check engine light is on and I'm not sure how serious it is.

So what's the question? You made a statement in the quote above, but you did not ask a question... :)

All the CEL does on that model is indicate that the engine computer saw something it didn't like or didn't agree with. Further testing is needed.

Keep in mind that an oxygen sensor code (for example) does not necessarily mean the sensor itself is broken or defective.

Take it to a good indy Nissan specialist and have it checked out.


Anyone have a list of what is done?

According to Nissan, and presuming you had all the other scheduled maintenance done:

120,000 Miles (192,000 Kilometers) : All Applicable Models
INSPECT AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID
INSPECT BRAKE DISCS/ROTORS
INSPECT BRAKE DRUMS
INSPECT BRAKE LINES & CABLES
INSPECT BRAKE PADS
INSPECT DRIVE BELTS
INSPECT DRIVESHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT DUST BOOTS
INSPECT EVAP VAPOR LINES
INSPECT EXHAUST SYSTEM
INSPECT FUEL FILTER (If vehicle is operated under adverse weather conditions, extremely high or low temperatures, the filters might become clogged. In such event, replace them immediately)
INSPECT FUEL LINES
INSPECT INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVE CLEARANCE (Audible inspection only.)
INSPECT MANUAL TRANSAXLE FLUID
INSPECT STEERING GEAR/RACK
INSPECT STEERING LINKAGE
INSPECT SUSPENSION COMPONENTS
REPLACE AIR CLEANER OR ELEMENT
REPLACE COOLANT
REPLACE ENGINE OIL
REPLACE SPARK PLUGS (Platinum Tipped Spark Plugs).
ROTATE TIRES

[GilbertsGrape]

I have a question. My check engine light is on and I'm not sure how serious it is.


Unless it is flashing it usualy isnt serious...... most of the time the gas cap isnt on good or the gas cap isnt getting a good seal.

take it to advanced Auto they have a computer they hook up to and read the code and give you a free print out of all the current codes that the light is on for.
They do it for FREE so that is great..... dealer will charge up to probably $60 for doing the same thing.

[brainsmile]

Where is Advanced Auto?




Take it to a good indy Nissan specialist and have it checked out.



would you buddy constitute a good specialist?

[GilbertsGrape]

http://advanceauto.know-where.com/advance-auto-parts/

[mechmike0034]

would you buddy constitute a good specialist?

The guy in Escondido? Yeah... If he's not, he'll know somebody.

I'd let him work on my stuff, which is saying something about his talent.

A caution about "free code scans" - they are worth exactly what you pay for them. Linky: http://www.alpineautoservice.com/Free_Check_Engine.html