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#1 |
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Chief of Naval Operations
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for those of you who change your own oil....
what brand filter do u use and what brand motor oil?
doing it myself for the first time.... any pointers? things I should watch out for? |
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#2 |
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Banned
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
Posts: 8,700
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I dont. I go to wal mart and get a 15 point service for 15$ Its prolly cheaper and faster in the long run.
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#3 |
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Rear Admiral Lower Half
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i use amzoil oil and filters - my dad is a dealer
but if you wanna go cheaper - i used to use mobil 1 synthetic and fram oil filters - i had 110,000 miles on my last truck using this and the inside of the engine was spotless and ran great. using the synthetic you only have to change the oil every 10,000 miles and the filter every 5,000. if you wanna use organic oil (penzoil, etc...) you need to change every 3,000. make sure you aren't wearing nice clothes ![]() i usually take out the rubber seal on the new oil filter and swab it good with new oil. put the gasket back on the filter and then install the filter - mebbe overkill but thats what i do hand tighten the filter - the mebbe a 1/4-1/2 turn more with a filter wrench - i learned that one the hard way - had to destroy the filter the next time i went to change the oil same type of thing for the oil plug - don't over tighten it you could strip out the bolt (very bad) that's my $.2 ![]()
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i have become comfortably numb......
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#4 |
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the lemonizer
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Fram oil filter and whichever oil Kmart or costco has on sale for my dad to buy...
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#5 | |
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Admiral
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Square On My Arse
Posts: 7,410
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Quote:
I agree with the filter part but would advise to go with a synthetic oil rather than what happens to be on sale. Mobile 1 has been mentioned and that is good. Personally, I prefer the Castrol Syntec. And make sure you dispose of your old oil properly. Doind it wrong can really screw things up.
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#6 |
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Chief of Naval Operations
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cool, thanks guys...
defniitely was gonna go for the synthetic stuff... but 10k? that's a lotta miles. I dunno, I think I'd kinda get worried and change my oil at 5k... |
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#7 |
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Lieutenant
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 387
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i use mobile 1 syn with an oem filter for my car. the 8000rpm redline is just too tempting NOT to hit everyday =) i change my oil about every 5-6k. You might want to find out if your car uses a crush bolt for the oil screw.
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it wasnt me....... |
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#8 |
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Rear Admiral Upper Half
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Location: Sherman Oaks, CA
Posts: 3,404
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Mobil 1 synthetic in my car.... That's what all german manufacturers recommend. Glad that the oil changed are included w/ my car. It guzzles up a huge 9 quarts.
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#9 |
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Vice Admiral
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Location: Gone Wheeling!
Posts: 4,409
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MAHEL filter (german) and Mobile 1 Synthetic... except now i use M1 Syntec because the full Synthetic is EXPENSIVE.
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#10 |
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Lieutenant Commander
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Pretty much everthing hoey said. I use Delco filters well because I drive a GM. One thing to check on is the drain plug gasket if it has one. Those suckers are over looked quite often.
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I'm not drunk but I play one on TV.
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#11 |
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Chief of Naval Operations
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so I headed over to the walmart yesterday, and found that the mobile 1 synthetics are like 26/27 bucks for 6 qt cases~!!?!?!?!?!?!
that was freakin ridiculous... so, I went bought partial synthetic (ain't changing till thursday) should I find another place that has cheaper synthetic? or is partial synthetic good enough? also, how about other brands....saw a 6 case of penzoil synthetic for 20 bucks - a LOT more reasonable price..... whatchu all think? where do u guys get your synthetic motor oil? |
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#12 |
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Commander
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penzoil syn is fine
before your put a synthetic into the car how many miles is on the car? synthetics are not good with cars that have high milage cuz it might leak dued to warn seals (just cause synt. are soo thin) I get fram filters and royal purple for my car I get them from my friends speed shop but if I had to buy them I would go to like a walmart or kmart type of stores and pick them up in the 5qt containers (cheaper that way) Last edited by SpeedEng : 10-15-2002 at 12:17 PM. |
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#13 |
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Chief of Naval Operations
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how much do u usually get them at walmart?
i didn't see any 5 qt containers :-/ as for milage...i have 27000 |
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#14 | |
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Commander
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yea you dont have a problem with the milage syn should be fine for your car btw you know that synt. oils are better for long distance driving and not really formulated for stop and go driving conditions. for stop and go I would have to say it's a waste of money because your changing the oil more often. I used to buy them for about 9-10 bux for a 5qt of castrol syntec @ I think it was @ walmart now im not sure (I have not purchase synthics for over 2 years now) hope this helps |
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#15 |
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Lieutenant Commander
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fram sureguard and mobil 1 synthetic for me...5w20
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#16 | |
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Lieutenant Commander
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shouldn't that be $.02? |
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#17 |
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Chief of Naval Operations
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hmmm, there's another question..
with those numbers...5w20 5w30 10w30 what do those number exactly mean? my pastor recommended that I use 5w30...but yeah...not quite sure what the numbers mean, and why I should use that.... I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero v6 if that makes any difference. 27000 miles. |
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#18 |
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5w30 should be fine for your car.
The numbers relate to the viscosity index. The lower the number, the more "fluid" the oil is, the higher the number, the "thicker" the oil is. The first number relates to the cold properties, and the second to the hot. So, this oil is able to flow like a 5 weight oil in the cold, while protecting like a 30 weight oil in hot temperatures. In general, unless you use synthetics, you should avoid anything with a span larger than this (difference between the 5 and the 30.. in other words, 25). The larger the number, the easier for the oil to break down, unless the oil is synthetic. The more fluid the oil, the better your gas economy will be, and your protection during cold startups. The thicker the oil, the better the protection will be if your car runs very hot (ie. turbocharged). If you do roadracing, you may want to go upwards of 15w50 or 20w50. Not that little autox thing some people like to do though. ![]() |
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#19 | |
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Lieutenant Commander
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Location: Signal Hill, Ca
Posts: 859
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Quote:
Acura Integra GSR!?! |
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#20 |
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Commander
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As far as what oil viscosity is best, it depends who you ask. The fact is that engine oil maintains its viscosity better than ever and synthetics maintain it the best In my opinion, the best viscosity for all weather is 5W-30. The reason is that both 5W-30 and 10W-30 breakdown at about the same point. Lighter oil can get into places that the heavier oil cannot and will get there more quickly, even when cold.
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#21 |
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Rear Admiral Upper Half
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: HB,CA/PA
Posts: 3,437
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Mileage
Would 90,500 miles be too much to start on synthetic?
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Off in La La Land |
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#22 | |
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Commander
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Re: Mileage
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It really depends on how well you took care of the engine.. @ 90k it's pretty much not worth the extra $$ to get a full synthetic maybe a multi blend like castrol syntec (which is a half and half blend) some cars would not have a problem some will, because the synthetics will clean off sluge that has formed inside of the engine (that sluge actually plays a good role cause it keeps it the engine sealed)once the sluge is off there could be a bit of oil leakages dued to how thin syns oil are! |
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#23 |
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Vice Admiral
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Gone Wheeling!
Posts: 4,409
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actually, on our BMW's, we GO to full sunthetic oils (like Mobile 1) when the mileage starts to get up there (past 120k)...
we also run 15w50. |
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#24 | |
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Commander
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Quote:
wow 15w50 year round? |
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#25 | |
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Chief of Naval Operations
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so, yeah...just did it.
and everything that could go wrong went wrong. sigh. so, I'm driving to my pastor's house (borrowing his driveway and tools), and it starts raining. and I'm like, you know what...it's not gonna take long... so, first. i get my car jacked. find the bolt. can't get it undone. takes like a good 5 minutes of struggling with it to undo it. I undo it, and just drop the bolt into the pan... (some spilliage onto the driveway.) I'm like, ok...not bad. so, I'm using the wrench that fits on top of the filter and u stick a socket wrench into the whole on the top, and it unscrews, right? http://www.partsamerica.com/product_...t/FTL1060X.jpg well, it took me a good hour to figure out that the filter had 14 sides, and the wrench had 15 sides. sigh.so, yeah... after 3 trips to Advance Auto Parts store, I get it loose...and when I take it off...eh... spillage all over....forgot about the leftover oil in the filter. so, finally I'm like ok, almost done. dunk my hand in the oil pan to get my bolt out (yeah....I'm stupid), tighten it. get my oilfilter and tighten that with my hand, and then did this: Quote:
about 1/4-1/2 turn more with wrench.... well, now the wrench part is still stuck on the filter. just NO way of getting it off ![]() started at around 4:45 finished at like 6:15 sigh so.yeah. I fill it up and i'm ok now. then I did my friends car afterwards..(raining steadily now), and finished that in like 15/20 minutes. |
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#26 |
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Admiral
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Hiding amongst the minnows
Posts: 6,843
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Yeah, it usually takes the longest time the first time you do it... After that, it is generally pretty quick, though some cars do have their moments.
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It is not enough to merely touch the face of god; you also must open your eyes so that you may see your palm. |
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