To the more auto inclined

LegendKiller · 03-03-2004, 01:54 PM

I have an 89 Toyota Camry that I want to keep for another 2 years. 154k miles, I drive ~24mi to and from work every day. It has been taken care of very well, oil replaced on schedule, tune ups, transmission flushes, timing belt, everything.

However, it has rusted along with top of the windshield and water is leaking in. I live in Orlando, so this problem will only get worse.

About how much would it be to fix this? I don't need a super-superb job done, nor do I need any cool paint. I want a base price just to get me along for another 2 years without a new car payment.

LK

baggio248 · 03-03-2004, 02:16 PM

Just taking a guess. Is it possible that it is a broken seal?? I don't know how to solve that other than check with a wind sheid company and see.

johnnymk · 03-03-2004, 03:07 PM

There is a body filler which contains fiberglass hairs. It's available at most auto outlets.

If you don't mind getting a little dirty, buy a cheap 4-1/2" grinder from Harbor Freight (roughly $20) and grind out the rust areas and use the filler . Then use a can of spray primer. The stuff is amazing!

Airencracken · 03-03-2004, 04:44 PM

Duct Tape.

LegendKiller · 03-03-2004, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by johnnymk
There is a body filler which contains fiberglass hairs. It's available at most auto outlets.

If you don't mind getting a little dirty, buy a cheap 4-1/2" grinder from Harbor Freight (roughly $20) and grind out the rust areas and use the filler . Then use a can of spray primer. The stuff is amazing!

No, it is actually rust, it is obvious, plus I had the windshield replaced and they warned me and showed me the problems. 15 year old car that was in Midwest and then Miami weather.

Sounds like a good idea john, wish it was more superficial, but I think the whole window structure needs to be refurbished.

LK

johnnymk · 03-03-2004, 05:10 PM

I thought you wanted to save some bucks. Personally, spending the money at a body shop to do it "right" on an 89 Camry with 150,000 miles is not worth it. Especially, since you only want to keep it 2 years.

Grubbie · 03-03-2004, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Airencracken
Duct Tape.

So ture, just duct tape it and seal it up

And if the duct tape comes off, buy some more and put it back on

johnnymk · 03-03-2004, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Grubbie

So ture, just duct tape it and seal it up And if the duct tape comes off, buy some more and put it back on

In the hot Florida weather, it won't last any time. Probably a week or two at most.

attgig · 03-03-2004, 07:11 PM

http://www.dow.com/greatstuff/index.htm
worked in my home...

not sure if it'll work on a car

LegendKiller · 03-03-2004, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by johnnymk
I thought you wanted to save some bucks. Personally, spending the money at a body shop to do it "right" on an 89 Camry with 150,000 miles is not worth it. Especially, since you only want to keep it 2 years.

I'm thinking it will only cost ~800 to do it somewhere like Maaco, just want the most basic thing they can do to stop the leaking. To do the filler, I'd have to take the windshield off myself since thats the worst part of it. I just dont have the tools to do that kind of thing.

LK

look_ma · 03-04-2004, 12:29 AM

attgig has the right idea, that stuff is awsome.

speedracer120 · 03-04-2004, 12:57 AM

Except that stuff isn't exactly water tight, and if you get it on glass, it's a bitch and a half to get off.

johnnymk · 03-04-2004, 05:09 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by attgig
http://www.dow.com/greatstuff/index.htm
worked in my home...

not sure if it'll work on a car

First of all, when it gets wet, it acts like a sponge. Secondly, when sunlight hits it over an extended period of time, it gets crinkly and deteriorates.

Airencracken · 03-05-2004, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Grubbie

So ture, just duct tape it and seal it up And if the duct tape comes off, buy some more and put it back on

That's right. Duct tape fixes everything.

guiseppewv · 03-08-2004, 07:40 AM

Take a picture of it so we can see exactly what you are talking about. If it is a quick patch of the metal that you are talking about I would suggest some JB weld. You can repair engine blocks with that stuff.

Check it out: http://www.jbweld.net/

This stuff kicks arse.

InfiniteNothing · 03-08-2004, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by LegendKiller

it will only cost ~800 to do it somewhere like Maaco
LK

Isn't that what it would cost to replace the whole car? Just a guess, no disrespect intended. It might be a good time to get a newer car if $800 is the the cheapest solution (I don't think it is)

LegendKiller · 03-08-2004, 01:39 PM

The thing is, I am pretty dang sure this car is good for 200k+ and I want to avoid car payments right now so I can pay down CC's from unemp and student loans while saving for a condo/house.

800 to keep a decent, reliable, known car, running and in decent working order isn't all that much.

I dont have a digicam around. However, what this is is the metal structure around the window actually rusting out. The paint is rust bubbled and broken around the rubber flashing. Last time I had the window replaced a lot of rust flakes actually fell into my car.

LK

InfiniteNothing · 03-08-2004, 02:02 PM

I'm saying go out and buy take that $800 and buy a car exactly like yours or maybe a little better, except get one that has a sealed windshield thing....that or duct tape. No car payments or anything, just a quick solution and if that car breaks down... use the old car for repacement parts. Much cheaper than buying the parts individually.

LegendKiller · 03-08-2004, 02:27 PM

Currently the car is worth ~1.3k. As I said before, it has been in to get service exactly when it should, everything else is pristine except for the windshield. I doubt I will get as good of a car for $800 as I have now.

LK

BobyJo · 03-18-2004, 11:20 AM

Since hindsight is so much better than foresight, when the bubbles first started to be visable.
You should have had the problem fixed then.
The way you are describing the rust and bubbles, I would say that section of the top is gone.

A good bodyshop could cut out a section of a top about 6" back from the windshield on a salvaged vehicle same model etc as yours.
Then cut out the same pattern from your top, weld the good section onto your top.
They use lead filler, to make the seams be almost invisable. The new section will be strong as the original top and should not leak at all.
I think you should be able to get this done for the $800 you are looking at.

03-03-2004, 01:54 PM	#1
LegendKiller Vice Admiral Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Northern VA Posts: 4,927	To the more auto inclined I have an 89 Toyota Camry that I want to keep for another 2 years. 154k miles, I drive ~24mi to and from work every day. It has been taken care of very well, oil replaced on schedule, tune ups, transmission flushes, timing belt, everything. However, it has rusted along with top of the windshield and water is leaking in. I live in Orlando, so this problem will only get worse. About how much would it be to fix this? I don't need a super-superb job done, nor do I need any cool paint. I want a base price just to get me along for another 2 years without a new car payment. LK

03-03-2004, 02:16 PM	#2
baggio248 Captain Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Aurora, OH Posts: 1,967	Just taking a guess. Is it possible that it is a broken seal?? I don't know how to solve that other than check with a wind sheid company and see. __________________ Peter: Lois, you've got a sick mind! Lois: Peter, I'm talking about making love. Peter: Oh, I thought you wanted us to murder the children and harvest their organs for beer money.

03-03-2004, 03:07 PM	#3
johnnymk Chief of Naval Operations Join Date: May 2000 Location: LEVITTOWN< PA> USA Posts: 13,621	There is a body filler which contains fiberglass hairs. It's available at most auto outlets. If you don't mind getting a little dirty, buy a cheap 4-1/2" grinder from Harbor Freight (roughly $20) and grind out the rust areas and use the filler . Then use a can of spray primer. The stuff is amazing! __________________ “Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery.” (Winston Churchill)

03-03-2004, 04:44 PM	#4
Airencracken Admiral Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: California Posts: 6,681	Duct Tape. __________________ "I remember my first orgasm, I just wish someone was there to share it with me..."11-05-2003 05:33 AM - Topane They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin Religion is the sigh of the oppressed creature, the heart of a heartless world, & the soul of soulless conditions. It is the opiate of the masses. - Karl Marx Hell is other people - Jean-Paul Sartre

03-03-2004, 07:11 PM	#9
attgig Chief of Naval Operations Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: the burbs of baltimore Posts: 11,924	http://www.dow.com/greatstuff/index.htm worked in my home... not sure if it'll work on a car __________________

03-03-2004, 05:10 PM	#6
johnnymk Chief of Naval Operations Join Date: May 2000 Location: LEVITTOWN< PA> USA Posts: 13,621	I thought you wanted to save some bucks. Personally, spending the money at a body shop to do it "right" on an 89 Camry with 150,000 miles is not worth it. Especially, since you only want to keep it 2 years.

03-04-2004, 12:57 AM	#12
speedracer120 Rear Admiral Upper Half Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: HB,CA/PA Posts: 3,437	Except that stuff isn't exactly water tight, and if you get it on glass, it's a bitch and a half to get off. __________________ Off in La La Land

03-08-2004, 07:40 AM	#15
guiseppewv Admiral Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: East coast Posts: 7,116	Take a picture of it so we can see exactly what you are talking about. If it is a quick patch of the metal that you are talking about I would suggest some JB weld. You can repair engine blocks with that stuff. Check it out: http://www.jbweld.net/ This stuff kicks arse.

03-08-2004, 01:39 PM	#17
LegendKiller Vice Admiral Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Northern VA Posts: 4,927	The thing is, I am pretty dang sure this car is good for 200k+ and I want to avoid car payments right now so I can pay down CC's from unemp and student loans while saving for a condo/house. 800 to keep a decent, reliable, known car, running and in decent working order isn't all that much. I dont have a digicam around. However, what this is is the metal structure around the window actually rusting out. The paint is rust bubbled and broken around the rubber flashing. Last time I had the window replaced a lot of rust flakes actually fell into my car. LK

03-08-2004, 02:02 PM	#18
InfiniteNothing Chief of Naval Operations Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: San Diego Posts: 10,086	I'm saying go out and buy take that $800 and buy a car exactly like yours or maybe a little better, except get one that has a sealed windshield thing....that or duct tape. No car payments or anything, just a quick solution and if that car breaks down... use the old car for repacement parts. Much cheaper than buying the parts individually.

03-08-2004, 02:27 PM	#19
LegendKiller Vice Admiral Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Northern VA Posts: 4,927	Currently the car is worth ~1.3k. As I said before, it has been in to get service exactly when it should, everything else is pristine except for the windshield. I doubt I will get as good of a car for $800 as I have now. LK

03-18-2004, 11:20 AM	#20
BobyJo Lieutenant Commander Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: N.C.Texas Posts: 594	Since hindsight is so much better than foresight, when the bubbles first started to be visable. You should have had the problem fixed then. The way you are describing the rust and bubbles, I would say that section of the top is gone. A good bodyshop could cut out a section of a top about 6" back from the windshield on a salvaged vehicle same model etc as yours. Then cut out the same pattern from your top, weld the good section onto your top. They use lead filler, to make the seams be almost invisable. The new section will be strong as the original top and should not leak at all. I think you should be able to get this done for the $800 you are looking at. __________________ DFI LP NF4 Sli-D 604 A64 X2-4800 Zalman CNPS9500CLED 2x1gb Corsair XMS Sapphire X1950 Pro XGWarCat7.2's Seagate 40gb backup drive Hitachi 160gb SATA 3.0gb Asus 16X DVD Drive blk Pioneer 16x DVD rw/EMC 7.5 Audigy 2 sound card Logitech Z640 SS Speakers Tsunamiw/window & blue lites OCZ XGamer 700 Watt PS

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