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#1 |
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Admiral
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Paging Dr. Mechmike...
I apologize if this sounds like the automotive version of "How do I clean my computer of all these viruses I opened."
So I have a 2002 Honda Civic. It has barely 13000 miles. So I have a few questions. 1) Considering that oil changes ask for 3 months or 3000 miles (4000 if you use a synthetic oil) and the fact that its literally taking 6 months to get 3000 miles, do I really need to change my oil every 3 months? 2) Due to my granny-like driving levels, I'm pretty much out of wack from my recommended maintenance schedule. Should I base it on time or mileage? 3) What exactly is a "tune up" 4) I think my car needs an alignment. I find that I have to hold the wheel slightly right of center to go straight...is that just me or should I have it looked? 5) At this stage of my car (3 years, 13000 miles), what should I look at? TIA, and really anyone can help me out. I may be technical competant, but I'm an automotive newbie. |
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#2 |
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Admiral
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: California
Posts: 6,681
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3 years and you've only driven it 13,000 mi
Dude my prius just went past 51,000mi and I've had just a bit less than three years.
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"I remember my first orgasm, I just wish someone was there to share it with me..."11-05-2003 05:33 AM - Topane They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin Religion is the sigh of the oppressed creature, the heart of a heartless world, & the soul of soulless conditions. It is the opiate of the masses. - Karl Marx Hell is other people - Jean-Paul Sartre
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#3 | |
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Rear Admiral Upper Half
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geez... my 99 civic had 38k miles when i got it in 2001, and it now has about 120k miles on it. do u just drive around the block for fun a couple times a day?
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-[ www.dankink.com ]- Quote:
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#4 |
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Lieutenant Commander
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Location: San Diego CA
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my 2k2 trans am only has 22k on it
![]() anyway to awnser some of your questions. unless you love your auto shop only change the oil every 3k unless your manual states otherwise. mine alternates from 3k - 6k its specific to the car. a standard tuneup is oil and fluids changed and usually an inspection of things that wear out like belts batteries ect. and then there is service tuneups witch covers breaks,alignment,tires rotated, transmission oil and filter ect. this type of service should also be in your manual, big one for most cars is the 60k or 30k service. also if you take your car to the same mechanic they should have a record of everything that has been done to your veh, this can save you a few bucks on the service type tune ups, sometimes things get done before the scheduled 30k tuneup and arent needed to be done agian, ask your service guy to look at your history so you dont have to pay for the same sevices that you just paid for 6 months before. im sure im missing some stuff, someone here will fill in the gaps ![]() |
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#5 |
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What's Da Pho*?
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Tune up includes a major services + timing belt + spark plugs + water pump.
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#6 | |
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aka the keg killer
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ala-effin'-bama!
Posts: 2,738
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Quote:
I'll look at your maintenance schedule once I am back in the office Monday afternoon and give you my patented opinionated answers. I'd rather work from the factory recommendations than give you something "off-the-cuff"... Same Bat-time, same Bat-Channel...
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"The price of progress is trouble." (C. F. "Boss" Kettering) "50% of the American public has below-average intelligence. 70% of the American public now has regular access to the Internet. Do the math." (unknown) |
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#7 |
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Chief of Naval Operations
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: woah... why is welfareloser here with me so early in the morning and more importantly why am I wearing her clothes?!?
Posts: 13,754
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I have a question. My check engine light is on and I'm not sure how serious it is.
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********************************** DCM #1 (Founder) ![]() "Nobody beats Vitus Gerulaitis 18 times in a row." - Vitus Gerulaitis on beating Jimmy Connors after 17 failed attempts. |
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#8 | |
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What's Da Pho*?
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#9 |
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Chief of Naval Operations
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: woah... why is welfareloser here with me so early in the morning and more importantly why am I wearing her clothes?!?
Posts: 13,754
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hmmm
well I just had a smog check done a while ago. Should I spend some cash and have it looked at? |
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#10 |
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Admiral
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: California
Posts: 6,681
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You could get a code reader...
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#11 | |
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aka the keg killer
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ala-effin'-bama!
Posts: 2,738
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Year, make, model, engine size? Gear, YGPM... |
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#12 | |||||
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aka the keg killer
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ala-effin'-bama!
Posts: 2,738
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Quote:
Honda's SEVERE service interval is an oil change every 5000 miles. Their NORMAL oil change interval is 10K miles (!) If it were me, I'd use Mobil1, a Honda or ACDelco filter, and change it twice a year or every 5K, whichever came first. Quote:
Here is the severe service schedule from Honda for your car at 10K and 15K miles: Replace Brake Fluid every 36 months Severe Maintenance Details 10,000 Miles (16,000 Kilometers) : All Applicable Models INSPECT DRIVESHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT DUST BOOTS INSPECT FRONT BRAKE SYSTEM INSPECT REAR BRAKE SYSTEM INSPECT STEERING GEAR/RACK INSPECT STEERING RACK BOOTS INSPECT SUSPENSION COMPONENTS LUBRICATE DOOR HINGES & LOCKS REPLACE ENGINE OIL REPLACE ENGINE OIL FILTER ROTATE TIRES 15,000 Miles (24,000 Kilometers) : All Applicable Models REPLACE AIR CLEANER ELEMENT REPLACE CABIN AIR FILTER REPLACE ENGINE OIL There's not much to it, really - a lot of "inspect" oil and filter at each, and air along with cabin air filters at 15K. I'd do the mileage stuff at the prescribed mileage, and have the brake fluid changed at three years just like it says. Brake fluid attracts moisture, so changing it every three years will keep the brake hydraulic system healthy. Bear in mind that this is what Honda says. Your dealer likely has what they typically call an "enhanced" maintenance schedule. It is called "enhanced" primarily because it enhances service department profits. Stick with the severe schedule as printed in the back of your owners' manual and you will be fine. Quote:
You won't find that term in your maintenance schedule. This is a term that, any more, is about as relevant as "inner tube". Cars used to need periodic "tune-ups" 30+ years ago. There arent any adjustments any more on most cars, and spark plugs, filters and the like should be replaced according to the factory maintenance schedule. Some folks call spark plug replacement a "tune-up". It can mean anything depending upon who is using the term, and there really isn't any standard definition any more. "Tune ups" are mostly marketing bullschitt in this day and time - see my comments re. "enhanced" maintenance schedules above. Quote:
First, check your tire pressure, adjust it as necessary, and then drive the car. If that doesn't take the "pull" or "lead" out of the steering, then have the tires rotated. (edit here) If the tires are showing uneven wear or if they are wearing evenly but the rotation does not correct the problem then have the alignment checked. Quote:
Please refer to the maintenance schedule above, and in your owners' manual... Last edited by mechmike0034 : 04-25-2005 at 12:06 PM. Reason: Let's add a point to the tire rotation/alignment thing... |
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#13 |
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Admiral
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Thanks dude!
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#14 | |
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aka the keg killer
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ala-effin'-bama!
Posts: 2,738
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Quote:
Oops - left something out of the tire rotation/alignment explanation - re-read that section as I just edited it. |
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#15 |
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Vice Admiral
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Posts: 4,352
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QUESTION Mechmike!!
![]() I got a '03 A4, and last month I took it to the dealer because the brakes where making clicking noises. Whenever I am driving at low speeds (10mph or less) and press on the brakes, I hear this "click". Its pretty loud too. Anyway, the dealers said that i was a my front left calipers. So they greased up this particular area (don't remember the exact explanation they gave me) of the calipers and the sound went away. So 30 days later, the sound is back, not consistantly like it was before, but i hear it occasionally. So my question is, what exactly do you suspect that to be? I'm suspecting there is more of a problem than they think there is. I want to take it in soon, but i want to have an idea as to what it could be so I can bring it up to their attention. Thanks in advance! ![]() |
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#16 | |
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Admiral
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Ooo I have that click noise too on my civic, but I've found it only happens on the first brake of the drive, when the car hasn't been running for a while. I figured it's normal because all brakes afterward are fine. |
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#17 | |
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Vice Admiral
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Posts: 4,352
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Really? I guess its more common than i thought. I still want to know more about what it could be. My commute involves driving over 2 tall bridges each way, I would really hate it of my brakes were not working properly ![]() |
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#18 | |
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aka the keg killer
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ala-effin'-bama!
Posts: 2,738
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Quote:
My crystal ball's in the shop, man... Seriously, it sounds like the brake pad is moving slightly and clicking against the caliper, caliper hardware, or bracket. The pad has to be able to move in and out, so there is a little bit of size difference between the metal backing of the brake pad and the slots, grooves or "cutout" the pad rides in. It is hard to describe without a picture, but think of a piece of a jigsaw puzzle that is cut to the correct shape but that is sized slightly smaller than the hole it fits in. When the brake is applied, the metal backing of the brake pad bumps the caliper bracket, and I would suspect that this situation is the source of your noise. A little silicone brake grease dampens it (and it sounds like this is what they did) but won't completely eliminate it. IT is an annoyance, but not a safety concern nor a big deal. Perhaps your next replacement set of pads will be coated or sized slightly larger to eliminate this (if this is in fact what the problem is), but maybe not. I could confirm this if I could see it, but it is a little tough to do anything other than make an educated guess via the forum. |
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#19 | |
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Captain
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 1,529
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If you let go of the wheel, do you keep going in a strait line, even though the logo on the wheel isn't perfectly upright? If that's the case, learn to live with it. On the other hand, if the car pulls to one side and you have to hold the wheel to go strait, then look at the other issues mentioned above (tire inflation, uneven wear, or alignment).
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-The nerd formerly known as vectorcalculus |
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#20 |
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Vice Admiral
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 4,352
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Cool Mechmike, thank you for your assestment. I'll probably just have those pads changed and see what happens. Hope that just goes away.
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#21 | |
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Chief of Naval Operations
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: woah... why is welfareloser here with me so early in the morning and more importantly why am I wearing her clothes?!?
Posts: 13,754
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Quote:
Is there a cheaper place to do a 120k mile checkup/tune up than Nissan? Anyone have a list of what is done? Last edited by brainsmile : 04-26-2005 at 02:05 PM. |
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#22 | ||
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aka the keg killer
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ala-effin'-bama!
Posts: 2,738
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Quote:
So what's the question? You made a statement in the quote above, but you did not ask a question... All the CEL does on that model is indicate that the engine computer saw something it didn't like or didn't agree with. Further testing is needed. Keep in mind that an oxygen sensor code (for example) does not necessarily mean the sensor itself is broken or defective. Take it to a good indy Nissan specialist and have it checked out. Quote:
According to Nissan, and presuming you had all the other scheduled maintenance done: 120,000 Miles (192,000 Kilometers) : All Applicable Models INSPECT AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID INSPECT BRAKE DISCS/ROTORS INSPECT BRAKE DRUMS INSPECT BRAKE LINES & CABLES INSPECT BRAKE PADS INSPECT DRIVE BELTS INSPECT DRIVESHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT DUST BOOTS INSPECT EVAP VAPOR LINES INSPECT EXHAUST SYSTEM INSPECT FUEL FILTER (If vehicle is operated under adverse weather conditions, extremely high or low temperatures, the filters might become clogged. In such event, replace them immediately) INSPECT FUEL LINES INSPECT INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVE CLEARANCE (Audible inspection only.) INSPECT MANUAL TRANSAXLE FLUID INSPECT STEERING GEAR/RACK INSPECT STEERING LINKAGE INSPECT SUSPENSION COMPONENTS REPLACE AIR CLEANER OR ELEMENT REPLACE COOLANT REPLACE ENGINE OIL REPLACE SPARK PLUGS (Platinum Tipped Spark Plugs). ROTATE TIRES |
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#23 | |
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Captain
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: You can’t get there from here, USA
Posts: 1,797
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Quote:
Unless it is flashing it usualy isnt serious...... most of the time the gas cap isnt on good or the gas cap isnt getting a good seal. take it to advanced Auto they have a computer they hook up to and read the code and give you a free print out of all the current codes that the light is on for. They do it for FREE so that is great..... dealer will charge up to probably $60 for doing the same thing. |
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#24 | |
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Chief of Naval Operations
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: woah... why is welfareloser here with me so early in the morning and more importantly why am I wearing her clothes?!?
Posts: 13,754
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Where is Advanced Auto?
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#25 |
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Captain
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Location: You can’t get there from here, USA
Posts: 1,797
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#26 | |
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aka the keg killer
![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Ala-effin'-bama!
Posts: 2,738
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Quote:
The guy in Escondido? Yeah... If he's not, he'll know somebody. I'd let him work on my stuff, which is saying something about his talent. A caution about "free code scans" - they are worth exactly what you pay for them. Linky: http://www.alpineautoservice.com/Free_Check_Engine.html Last edited by mechmike0034 : 05-02-2005 at 08:58 AM. |
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