angl2b

so I got my dead battery replaced - and NTB checked it out - and told me the alternator and everything is fine - so the battery light is still on - they told me to go to the dealership and have it reset. The battery light went off on its own and came back on last night. I called the dealership and they said its prob. the alternator and it would run me about 400$. Is this right? I am a bit upset about these car probs. It is certainly a lot more of a hassle then a stress reliever.

Chevy Cavalier - 1995 - 64k miles

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speedracer120

$400 for an alternator? Shoot, have them look at it, if it's free, then drive away and look around your local mechanics. They should be able to do it for $200, I think. Haven't had that changed in almost 8 years.

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johnnymk

Some auto parts supply stores will perform a test on your charging sysytem for free. Try them first.

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Daedalus

At a dealership $400 is probably right. Parts cost more than Pep Boys and labor is probably around $100/hour. You can get it cheaper elsewhere, but I usually recommend dealership parts because they are higher quality than Pro-start and other chain brands.
If you want to troubleshoot on your own you measure the voltage with a voltmeter. Car off, battery should be around 12.6 volts. While cranking, voltage should drop, but stay above 10V. While running with all lights/accessories on (and this one's key for your problems) the voltage should be 13-15 volts.
My guess is that the dealership is correct, and that you'll measure less than 13 volts with the car running.

angl2b

NTB when they checked everything they said the alternator was fine too and it was just the battery - the dealership said other places can't gauge these things as well as thy can.
I will be sure to have mcs read this thread so he can decide what we should do about this car.
thanks for the advices.

MikeD

That statement says alot. Anyone can load test an alternator, and if the dealership says otherwise they're full of BS.


You'll know if it's the alternator. You battery won't recharge, and eventually the car won't start. That probably doesn't sound appealing, but it's a surefire way to see if the alternator is the source of the problem.

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mcs328

I initially suspected the alternator. NTB said it was the battery which I can believe since this car didn't look like it was well maintained so a dying battery sounded reasonable. I now believe it's the alternator because it's a brand new battery and it's not being recharged. I've replaced the alternator before on an Old Cutlass Ciera and that cost me about 100+ in parts. I could do it but I don't have a set of hand tools like I had access to when I lived at home.

I don't think NTB will fix it because they didn't really perform a service we paid for with regards to altenator. They checked the alternator and the started and they replaced the battery. I'll look into local gas stations and shops because I imagine the range is quite limited and the cost of a tow truck if it dies will negate any savings I would get trying to reach a cheaper further out repair station.

Right now I'm looking for coupons.

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mechmike0034

The charging system on that vehicle is computer-controlled, meaning that the engine control computer commands the charging circuit on and off.

The system is either commanded off or not charging for another reason whenever the charge light is on.

Without getting really heavy-duty technical, this means an intermittent (charges sometimes) problem could be in:

- The Alternator itself...
- The wiring between the alternator and the engine control computer
- The engine control computer itself - either a failure within the computer or the computer commanding the charging system off based upon something else (another input) it sees that it doesn't like.

Find a good independent shop that really knows system diagnosis and have the system checked out before replacing any parts.

Here's some basic checks - keep in mind that these pages don't go into the computer controls at all: http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_sbpage1.htm

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Grimm

An alternator is a part that you can change yourself. It doesn't require a great deal of mechanical knowedge, is usualy easy to access and only requires a few common tools. I did it on my Olds Cutlas Calias a few years back. I don't even change my own oil.

It will be much cheaper to buy the parts and tools, then do it yourself. And you even get to keep the tools.

angl2b

thanks -
mcs are you reading and taking notes??

kgsilvas

Here's a quick tip on "How to loosen the belt to install a new alternator on a 1996 Chevy Cavalier". It might apply to the 1994 too.
Use a 15mm box end wrench on the spring tension idler pulley. The idler pulley is in the middle of all the pulleys on the belt. It is right under the engine mount and above the crankshaft pulley. It is difficult to get to, but I can put the wrench on the bolt in the center of the pulley and apply clockwise force (looking at the engine from the passenger side fender) to rotate the idler down. This will loosen the belt. You will need to do the same to re-install the belt. Be careful, the pulley will try to spring up when you remove the belt. Make sure you memorize or draw the belt path before you remove it. If you forget, Advance Auto Parts can print a diagram.