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Old 03-17-2007, 08:59 PM   #1
ski
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Wiring question (fun Paint pictures inside!)

Hardware related question - soldering/connecting wire.

I'm trying to connect speaker wire between the inside of my sub box's terminals and the sub (doesn't really matter what the application is, wiring is universal). Here's what the inside of the terminal looks like:



I can thread the speaker wire through, but is there any option other than soldering to hold it in place?
If soldering is the only option, do you just tin the heck out of it from all angles?

Also, when dealing with speaker wire, it comes as double strand. If I want to wire my voice coils in series, was I right to cut off a piece, and just use one strand to connect the negative of one terminal to the positive of the other, then use the double strand full piece to connect the other two?

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Old 03-19-2007, 01:23 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ski
I can thread the speaker wire through, but is there any option other than soldering to hold it in place?
If soldering is the only option, do you just tin the heck out of it from all angles?

Is this a commercial, retail sub? Are you sure that there isn't some sort of adaptor that is supposed to go with that?

Other than soldering, the only other suggestion I might have is a machine screw of exactly the right diameter. Even though the hole is square, you might be able to find a metric or English screw that you could wrap the wire around, then thread into the hole.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ski
If I want to wire my voice coils in series,

Your logic seems correct, but why on earth would you want your speakers in series? This will cause a small delay between the two. Parallel would make a lot more sense than series.
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Old 03-19-2007, 02:33 PM   #3
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Clever with the screw solution. If you are definitely going to use solder I would solder along side the plate as if there weren't a hole at all.

That is indeed how you wire in series but make sure you are considering impedances of the speaker and the amp. I agree with the above delay warning. You may want to splice the two wires and connect parallely.

Last edited by InfiniteNothing : 03-19-2007 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 03-19-2007, 04:46 PM   #4
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Ever heard of "quick disconnects"? Someone just informed me about them... looks like they're exactly what is needed, eh?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Paymaster
Your logic seems correct, but why on earth would you want your speakers in series? This will cause a small delay between the two. Parallel would make a lot more sense than series.
My amp pushes 400W x 1 @ 4 Ohms. With 2 Ohm dual voice coils and a sub capable of handling 400W, it's the optimal wiring (as far as I know).

EDIT: Oops, I didn't originally specify I only have one speaker with dual voice coils.

Last edited by ski : 03-19-2007 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 03-19-2007, 05:29 PM   #5
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Oh yeah. That's what you need if your spades are kind of rounded at the end. You can pick em up at an autopart stores.
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Old 03-20-2007, 01:20 PM   #6
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This Page confirms that your series wiring is correct...
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Old 03-20-2007, 02:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paymaster
This Page confirms that your series wiring is correct...

Yup...



Quote:
Provides an Impedance of 2 times the single Voice Coil Impedance. Uses both voice coils wired in series.

2 ohm Voice Coils = 4 ohm load
4 ohm Voice Coils = 8 ohm load
6 ohm Voice Coils = 12 ohm load
8 ohm Voice Coils = 16 ohm load
16 ohm Voice Coils = 32 ohm load

Additional confirmation here...



http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm
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Old 03-20-2007, 09:18 PM   #8
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Don't use cheap crimp-on terminal ends - find an electronics supply house and get some that crimp AND solder.

I thought you were an EE major...

Anyway, more info here: http://the12volt.com/
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Old 03-20-2007, 10:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mechmike0034
Don't use cheap crimp-on terminal ends - find an electronics supply house and get some that crimp AND solder.

I thought you were an EE major...

Anyway, more info here: http://the12volt.com/


I totally agree. There are some crappy cheap terminal ends out there. I bought some from Autozone and couldn't believe how flimsy they were. And when they are enclosed in plastic, it is difficult to tell if you have crimped it correctly. So adding solder is the best insurance against a crummy connection.

Also, the spade and the connector can be loose, especially in cheap terminals, although it's not as critical in stationary applications as it is in vehicles.

Last edited by johnnymk : 03-20-2007 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 03-20-2007, 11:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ski
Ever heard of "quick disconnects"? Someone just informed me about them... looks like they're exactly what is needed, eh?




My amp pushes 400W x 1 @ 4 Ohms. With 2 Ohm dual voice coils and a sub capable of handling 400W, it's the optimal wiring (as far as I know).

EDIT: Oops, I didn't originally specify I only have one speaker with dual voice coils.

if i were you i go out and buy some good terminal Crimpers .like these made by kline
they or ones by greenlee can be found at home depot or lowes in there eletrical departments ! dont cheep out these will last you a life time .and save you a lot of sorrow !
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Old 03-22-2007, 05:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mechmike0034
Don't use cheap crimp-on terminal ends - find an electronics supply house and get some that crimp AND solder.

I thought you were an EE major...
I was an EE major, but remember someone with an EE degree != electrician I can explain the theory behind the electric phenomenon, but all the education takes you to is "you need continuity to carry the signal / power" (unless you specialized in electronics work).

As far as where to get good quick disconnects if AutoZone is out of the question...
1) Home Depot / Lowes'?
2) Ask the amp installer if they have any (Circuit City)?
3) Radio Shack?

Not sure if I even know the name of one "electronics supply house" - Fry's may be the closest thing I know of to one.

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Old 03-22-2007, 07:19 PM   #12
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http://www.arcade-electronics.com/
There's probably more - I didn't do a lot of searching...
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:43 PM   #13
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Nice, thank you -- I will give them a call this weekend.
The general question is... will a wholesaler sell you anything less than a gross of a small part?
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Old 03-23-2007, 07:45 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ski
The general question is... will a wholesaler sell you anything less than a gross of a small part?

You might have to buy a bag of terminals, but certainly less than a gross. Ask them. Tell them what you're trying to accomplish (a connection potentially carrying 400 watts) and ask their recommendation for terminals and a crimper.

Pages 5, 6, and 10 through 12 of this document will give you an overview on crimp/solder procedures:

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h5.pdf

Interesting blog post on terminals: http://toolmonger.com/2007/02/16/tes...imp-terminals/

Here's some terminals: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...BaseItem=4X423

Crimping tool: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1611598566

Grainger Supply locations:

Branch: 909
435 Calvert Ave.
Alexandria, VA 22301-1085
Phone: (703) 644-8500
Fax: (703) 644-8513

Branch Hours:
7:30 AM - 5:00 PM (Monday - Friday)

Branch: 903
2947 Gallows Rd.
Falls Church, VA 22042-1024
Phone: (703) 698-1503
Fax: (703) 644-8513

Branch Hours:
7:00 AM - 5:00 PM (Monday - Friday)

Branch: 897
7400 Boston Blvd.
Springfield, VA 22153-3121
Phone: (703) 644-8500
Fax: (703) 644-8513

Branch Hours:
7:00 AM - 5:00 PM (Monday - Friday)

Last edited by mechmike0034 : 03-23-2007 at 08:19 AM. Reason: Added sources and other links...
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Old 03-23-2007, 04:17 PM   #15
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Thank you so much. Going to drop by one of those places tomorrow. I really appreciate the research -- it's the only way I'm able to learn in the DIY process.
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