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Thread: Best place to get oil(0w-20) change in San Diego?

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    Best place to get oil(0w-20) change in San Diego?

    Any tips on a good place for getting an oil change in San Diego? I have a 2006 Civic Hybrid. For my first change I took it to Goodyear cause I bought one of those 5 "free" oil change for $50 cards they were selling door to door. When I showed up for my "free" oil change they hit me with a $12.99/quart charge cause I needed 0w-20 oil which is not covered by the "free" promotion.

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    Chief of Naval Operations InfiniteNothing's Avatar
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    If you bring in your own oil would they still charge you for it

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    Captain surfer's Avatar
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    They have a policy against using user purchased parts.

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    aka the keg killer mechmike0034's Avatar
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    Call Petersen Automotive in Escondido, unless that happens to be too far out of your way. I know time and distance don't correspond in SoCal like they do in other areas...

    http://www.ourautoshop.com/
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    Admiral renovation's Avatar
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    I hope you demanded a full refund!
    You could pick up Lindsay Lohan for less than a intel 990x, and still have money left over to bail her outta jail

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    Chief of Naval Operations cheapie's Avatar
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    if you've got a wal-mart they do them super cheap. we usually get full synthetic for about $35. much better than the major oil change chains!

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    There is a Wal-mart about 4 miles away. I'll give them a try on my next oil change. I'll keep the Escondido shop in mind but that's a bit far.

    To everybody in the University City area stay away from Goodyear Tire in the UTC mall. I went there Sunday and they hole punched my prepaid card so it couldn't be used then they told me to make an "appointment" for another day cause they couldn't get the 0w-20 oil cause there parts place wasn't open. The next day I showed up for my "appointment" on time at 4pm and the assistant manager said an oil guy called in sick and they couldn't fit me in. After talking with him more he said it's first come first serve and it appeared the 0w-20 oil that was suppose to be ordered was nowhere to be found.

    There are 4 more "free" oil changes left on the card but I'm going to give it away to someone whose car takes the "free" 10w-30 oil.

  8. #8
    Secretary of Defense DarkFury's Avatar
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    Personally, I buy my Amsoil Synthetic and my filter (both good for 1 year 35,000 miles whichever comes first) and take my ride to Walmart to have them put it in.

    Pretty much they charge me like $15 to do this... and since it's only once a year, it really isn't that much of a bother to wait for them to get to it.

    Most of the other local oil change shops only wanna give you like $2 off the standard oil change (which costs me like $32.99 here) to put in "self supplied" oil... which is a big rip-off!

    Hell, if their oil is only worth $2, then why don't they sell it for that price and let folks change their own dayuuum oil.

    Pretty much even if their "lube techs" were charging $40 per hour for labor and these places guarantee an oil change in 10 mins or less (which is about $6.67 per 10 minute increment) then giving the guy a half hour worth of labor + lift/pit time seems fair enough to me.
    Last edited by DarkFury; 12-05-2006 at 10:24 AM.


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    Chief of Naval Operations brainsmile's Avatar
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    once a year???
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    Secretary of Defense DarkFury's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brainsmile
    once a year???
    Yes... once a year.

    Don't believe the myth of the 3,000 / 3 month oil change.


    www.amsoil.com



    SERVICE LIFE
    AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline fueled vehicles as follows:

    • Normal Service(3) – Up to 35,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.

    • Severe Service(4) – Up to 17,500 miles or one year, whichever comes first.

    • Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).

    • In all non-gasoline fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval.
    Last edited by DarkFury; 12-05-2006 at 01:02 PM.


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    Captain surfer's Avatar
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    Where do you buy this oil? How much does it cost?




    Quote Originally Posted by DarkFury
    Yes... once a year.

    Don't believe the myth of the 3,000 / 3 month oil change.


    www.amsoil.com


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    Chief of Naval Operations brainsmile's Avatar
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    does the age of the car matter?
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    I don't know if they have this anymore, but I used to use these coupons from the Student Dollar Stretcher that I got from UCSD (I don't know if SDSU have those). Inside, there's a coupon for a $9.99 oil change at Big O Tires. They always try to get you to buy new tires, doors, windows, mirrors, whatever else they can throw at you. Just say no. They do a pretty decent job too.

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    Secretary of Defense DarkFury's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfer
    Where do you buy this oil? How much does it cost?
    You can buy AMSOIL directly from their website, or there is an extensive "dealer network" that sells the oil online. Personally, I used to be an online dealer, but I dropped my status down to "preferred customer" because I really wasn't trying to sell oil myself (however one day that might change depending on how much interest it begins to generate.)

    The Series 2000 oil is about $9 per quart + shipping, however considering that it can go 1 year 35,000 miles, you save over the long run by not having to buy 3 additional oil changes and the time spent changing your oil 3 additional times.

    Pretty much I've run it in my Ram 1500 HEMI for the past 2 years and she runs like a top (only have had 3 oil changes on her to date. )

    My 300C uses 5W20 which is not yet a Series 2000 rating, so I have to use AMSOIL's 7,500 mile/6 month oil in that vehicle.

    Quote Originally Posted by brainsmile
    does the age of the car matter?
    Not really... as long as the vehicle is in good running condition and doesn't have obvious oil leaks then it would be safe running AMSOIL.

    Personally 2 years ago I converted my 1996 T-Bird from conventional Valvoline to the 1 year 25,000 mile regular synthetic AMSOIL (10W30) and ran it for 2 years on that oil (I just recently drove that vehicle down to Florida to give it to my nephew... and it still hasn't had an oil change.)



    Pretty much I now swear by AMSOIL... I've had nothing but good things to say about it since I started using it and I won't be going back to conventional any time soon.
    Last edited by DarkFury; 12-05-2006 at 05:25 PM.


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    Chief of Naval Operations brainsmile's Avatar
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    so now educate me on the different oil combinations 10w30 etc
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    aka the keg killer mechmike0034's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brainsmile
    so now educate me on the different oil combinations 10w30 etc
    Start here: http://bobistheoilguy.com/
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    Secretary of Defense DarkFury's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brainsmile
    so now educate me on the different oil combinations 10w30 etc
    I don't quite understand your question...

    10w30 is a oil formulation that just states that in the winter time the oil will flow like a 10W oil but still give the protection as a 30W oil

    (Of course this is a "much simplified" definition).


    Or are you asking about what different viscosities of the Series 2000 oil from AMSOIL?


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    They don't make AMSOIL in 0w-20. Would I notice a difference using Extended Life 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil?

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    Chief of Naval Operations brainsmile's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkFury
    I don't quite understand your question...

    10w30 is a oil formulation that just states that in the winter time the oil will flow like a 10W oil but still give the protection as a 30W oil

    (Of course this is a "much simplified" definition).


    Or are you asking about what different viscosities of the Series 2000 oil from AMSOIL?
    My question was basically... what oil viscosity do you use in what situation?

    Does age of car matter?

    Weather?

    etc
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    Secretary of Defense DarkFury's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfer
    They don't make AMSOIL in 0w-20. Would I notice a difference using Extended Life 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil?
    Which engine size is your Honda Civic Hybrid?

    Looking at the Online Application Guide located here: http://www.amsoil.com/scripts/runisa...msoiloaf:index

    Selecting the 1.3L 4-cyl Engine code LDA2 Variable Fuel (assuming this is yours, it says the following:

    LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS
    Engine Oil
    Grade 1......API*[1]
    Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil
    SAE 5W-20 XL Synthetic Motor Oil
    All Temps......0W-20
    Pretty much unless your car states that you can't use a 0W30 oil (the same stuff I use in my truck) then the only other oil the offer is the 5W20 oil (XL-7500) that is the same as what I use in my 300C (good for only 7500 miles or 6 months)

    Maybe one day they will make a 0W20 oil... but I guess that right now, not enough vehicles use that combination to warrent them to produce that formulation in the Series 2000 version.

    I feel the same way about them not making the Series 2000 in 5W20... but I've heard that it is being talked about and may be produced in the future. If they do, then I'm gonna switch my 300C from the XL-7500 version to the Series 2000 version.


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    Secretary of Defense DarkFury's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brainsmile
    My question was basically... what oil viscosity do you use in what situation?

    Does age of car matter?

    Weather?

    etc
    Pretty much you use whatever oil viscosity is recommended by your vehicle manufactuer.

    Most OEMs give you an "operating range" for you to buy oil... if you live in a colder climate than I'd say that it would be better to get the lowest front number you can find for the appropriate oil viscosity (i.e. my Ram 1500 recommends 10W30 or 5W30... however I'm perfectly safe using 0W30 since the oil flows even better in the Winter than the normal 5 or 10 weights without burning off.

    Bascially, the colder the environment you live in, the lower the front number you want to use as that means that the oil will flow easier through your engine on startup (when all the oil is settled down in your oil pan) The 5W oil flows a bit easier than the 10W, just as a 0W flows better than a 5W.

    As far as the age of the car... as I stated before, you should be alright, however if you've been on regular "conventional" oil for a long time (i.e. over 2 years) then I'd recommend using an engine oil flush to remove any deposits that might be in your engine due to all the parafins (wax) that conventional oils contain in order to maintain their viscosity.

    Here is a link to the AMSOIL brand engine flush: https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aef.aspx



    Engine Flush (AEF)
    AMSOIL Fast Acting Engine Flush is made from a carefully selected blend of solvents and special cleaning agents that dissolve and disperse harmful deposits formed in the crankcase, cylinder walls, pistons and rings of an internal combustion engine. When used as directed, it cleans and restores operating efficiency to valves, valve lifters, rocker arms, and pistons for improved horsepower, fuel economy, and performance. Use before changing oil.
    Last edited by DarkFury; 12-06-2006 at 08:19 PM.


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    You picked the correct engine on my 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid. The owners manual says to use 0W-20 or 5W-20 if OW-20 is unavailable. Doesn't specifically say not to use 0W-30...


    Quote Originally Posted by DarkFury
    Which engine size is your Honda Civic Hybrid?

    Looking at the Online Application Guide located here: http://www.amsoil.com/scripts/runisa...msoiloaf:index

    Selecting the 1.3L 4-cyl Engine code LDA2 Variable Fuel (assuming this is yours, it says the following:



    Pretty much unless your car states that you can't use a 0W30 oil (the same stuff I use in my truck) then the only other oil the offer is the 5W20 oil (XL-7500) that is the same as what I use in my 300C (good for only 7500 miles or 6 months)

    Maybe one day they will make a 0W20 oil... but I guess that right now, not enough vehicles use that combination to warrent them to produce that formulation in the Series 2000 version.

    I feel the same way about them not making the Series 2000 in 5W20... but I've heard that it is being talked about and may be produced in the future. If they do, then I'm gonna switch my 300C from the XL-7500 version to the Series 2000 version.

  23. #23
    Secretary of Defense DarkFury's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfer
    You picked the correct engine on my 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid. The owners manual says to use 0W-20 or 5W-20 if OW-20 is unavailable. Doesn't specifically say not to use 0W-30...
    Dont' put the 0W30 in your car!!! (doing that might void the warranty!!!)

    Basically your car runs off of 20W oil... so you can play with the front number going down. Don't change the back number as that is really the official weight of the oil being used in the application.

    I know that because my 300C has the MDS (Multi Displacement System) that I am required to use a 20W oil. If I put a 30W oil in there, then that would void the warranty if it were to cause a malfunction. Therefore I just stick to the 5W20 oil.

    But look at the bright side... 2 oil changes per year is still better than 4 (plus the XL-7500 oil is cheaper per quart than the Series 2000).
    Last edited by DarkFury; 12-08-2006 at 09:23 AM.


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    Chief of Naval Operations brainsmile's Avatar
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    Do you generally flush the engine yourself or take it somewhere?
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    Secretary of Defense DarkFury's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brainsmile
    Do you generally flush the engine yourself or take it somewhere?
    Flushing the engine oil is really no different than any other oil change... just depends on whether or not you wanna get messy yourself or let someone else get messy.


    Pretty much you put the Engine flush in the oil... run the car for 15 to 20 mins (don't drive it... just start it and let it run) then drain the hot oil out of the car into your drip pan.

    Add fresh oil (and a new filter) after you replace the drain plug and you are done.


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    Chief of Naval Operations brainsmile's Avatar
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    do you add the flush or do you drain some of the oil first and then add the flush?
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    Some questions about taking the car to Wal-mart. How long does it usually take for an oil change? Do they typically have "rare" oil filters in stock like for a 2006 Civic Hybrid?

  28. #28
    Secretary of Defense DarkFury's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brainsmile
    do you add the flush or do you drain some of the oil first and then add the flush?
    Just add the flush to the oil you currently have...

    That bottle isn't that much... it's only 16 ounces.


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    Secretary of Defense DarkFury's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfer
    Some questions about taking the car to Wal-mart. How long does it usually take for an oil change? Do they typically have "rare" oil filters in stock like for a 2006 Civic Hybrid?
    Whenever I take my car to Wally world, I plan on being there at least 45 mins to 2 hours (any more than 2 hours and I just come back later)

    Pretty much the only reason I tolerate the "slowness" is that I can at least shop while my car waits, they have a "food court" if I get hungry (my Wally world has a Mikey D's in it) and I can generally keep myself busy.. unlike waiting at the dealership.

    Also, as far as getting rid of waste oil (if you change your oil yourself)... only Wal-mart and Auto Zone will readily accept used oil... most of the "quick lubes" won't even talk to you if you come in with old oil in a drip pan.

    As far as the oil filter goes.... my only advice is "DON'T BUY A CHEAP FRAM FILTER!!!"... I'd say go to NAPA and get you a good Wix filter for your car, or, if you decide to use the AMSOIL, get the synthetic nanofiber Ea filter that is good for one year. Filtering the oil is high on the "important list" as far as protecting the engine in regards to oil.
    Last edited by DarkFury; 12-08-2006 at 10:27 PM.


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    aka the keg killer mechmike0034's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkFury
    I'd recommend using an engine oil flush to remove any deposits that might be in your engine due to all the parafins (wax) that conventional oils contain in order to maintain their viscosity.
    I've got to disagree on this one. Many manufacturers caution against engine flushes, as per this example:

    http://acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/tsb/tsb_03D-159.pdf

    I don't know if Honda specifically does, but it'd be worth verifying in the owner's manual before doing it.

    http://www.artsautomotive.com/GenuineFluids.htm

    This is Honda 0W-20 motor oil for use in the Insight and Civic Hybrid. 0W-20 is very thin. Both the Civic and Insight have very tight main bearing clearances (.00095" , just under one thousandth of an inch, about half of what most engines run). Not only will using the wrong oil reduce fuel economy, but may actually ruin the engine. Thicker oil may not be able to squeeze in between the bearing and the journal when cold and cause some serious damage. Honda is currently the only manufacturer using 0W-20 oil.
    Your Civic Hybrid has a Maintenance Minder system - follow it!

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX?14@@.ef8655c/32

    Bottom line - follow what your owner's manual says to do as far as oil type, viscosity, service grade and change interval...
    Last edited by mechmike0034; 12-09-2006 at 12:39 PM.
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